One of the zones on the furnace went out. Followed the trail to a non-functioning zone valve. The brand is Synchron. There is 24 volts to it, but it does not work using electricity. There are four of these valves on the furnace. On the top of each are two sets of contacts. One set of two and one set of three. Across all 4 valves, the reading on the set of two is .01v (ac meter). On the set of three, the reading between 1 and 3 is 24v ac across all 4 valves. With all 4 thermostats demanding heat three of the valves read 24v ac across 1 and 2. Only the one valve reads zero between 1 and 2. And that's the zone that gets no heat. Does that mean the Synchron motor is bad? Or is that plastic item with the two sets of screws a controller of sorts? What needs fixing/replacing? I can manually turn that valve on using it's little over ride lever on the top. There is no nomenclature on the Synchron cover except the name and Made in USA.
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Last edited by mrcaptainbob; 11-25-2012, 02:47 PM. -
zone valves
all zone valves work with electricity. inside is a wax pellet that gets heated by a circular element. a spring makes the valve open when the wax pellet melts and closes -or- opens a contact [an A or B contact.] the thermostat operates the valve and the valve turns on the burner. -
zone valve
Try this link to Honeywell: https://customer.honeywell.com/resou...95C-10938B.pdf
The motor is a Synchron, but the valve is more than likely a Honeywell. The above link will show you the wiring diagram. Yes you can move the lever to the closed position and you should get flow.
TomComment
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Synchron motor....
Yes, Hawkins, it is a Honeywell valve with a Synchron motor. I do have a question about this assembly. Since moving the manual lever allows water to flow I can assume there's no obstruction or other mechanical reason for the valve to not function. That leaves the electrical. Is the plastic part at the top with the screw terminals nothing more than a terminal board? It's not a switch or thermostat? Is the motor the only part that can go bad? Can I check it by applying 24v to it? What else might I need to look at? Although the unit I have is different from your link, there's enough similarities to see either would work this situation.
Thanks, Hawkins.Comment
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Synchron motor...
Okay, I removed the motor from the unit but left the two wires connected. I removed the can cover lid from the motor and the armature spun freely. However, holding the output gear showed there were flat spots in the internal gears. Unless this is a feature of a stepper motor, I believe the gear(s) are slightly stripped. I did find one (http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI...m=150822252140). The Honeywell model I have is V8043F1036, so I think this will fit. Your opinion?...Last edited by mrcaptainbob; 11-26-2012, 02:43 PM.Comment
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zone valve gears
It sounds like the gear is stripped. This is not unheard of. If the lever moves smoothly the valve is OK. As long as the new one has the same hook up for the valve and electrical connections I think it will work.
TomComment
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Synchron motor....
Thanks for the help, Tom.Comment
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just make sure there are no other stripped teeth on the linkage or you might as well replace the complete head.Comment
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Mrcaptainbob, where u located ?Comment
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is there still a chat window on here ?Comment
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capt bob
dfitz he's in michiganComment
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Synchron Motor....
Dfitz... I got the pm. Great site. Was actually able to apply part of it to a separate project. And this was from just a cursory glance! Great site. Thanks. Yes, I am in Michigan. South central part. That's a good caution, HayZee. I'll check the whole thing before installing the new motor. I'm kind of sure at this point it is the motor gearing, as there are a few bald spots between the gear movements.Comment
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chat
I think they eliminated it when they changed the software.Comment
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Synchron Motor....
Well, the new motor is installed and all is well now. Thanks very much to all for the help. It was supposed to arrive in early December. They and the post office did a great job, too.Comment
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Well, maybe not as good as I thought. Seems like it won't turn off/on The heat is always on. Does not respond to the t'stat. But there is power to it. And it sounds like the gizmo does whir when it calls for on or off. Did I mess up up? Is it supposed to be synchronized with something?Comment
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