I have a old moniter 40 and I tink the arm has broke on the carb..theone where you push in and out,,,it is causing the tank to overflow....is there a fix for this??/thanksor a diagraham to help outmany thanks
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Moniter 40 heater carb arm broke
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moniter 40
Can this arm be replaced or isit need to help hold the float down?I have 2 moniters and they both are broken at the bottom of the arm(theone you push in and out I guess to prime)there is a little hook on the bottom of it...and it has broken off....I can send pictures if needed.....I hope someone can help me out here..I know these heaters are old bu have been serviced a few years back and seem to run fine...untill i started it up this year and noticed it overflowing...I took the top off the carb and I saw the arm was broken at the bottom,,
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monitor 40
you sure it isn't an M41? In either case check e bay for parts. your problem started because you didn't clean the water out from the bottom of the sump. when kero floats on top of water it forms a brown crappy looking mess that needs to be cleaned out. yours, unfortunately went too far and rusted out the linkage. it needs replacement. you can't fix it.
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sump lockout
that part is the sump lockout arm. it is spring loaded that toggles over center. when you have too much fuel or not enough fuel the arm moves over center and stops the fuel flow. it operates off that black float arm. it does NOT prime anything! Instructions say to press this thing once or twice. what you are doing is moving the needle valve off its seat to fill the fuel bowl. it also resets the toggle. you can try to fix it but I don't think you can get it hot enough with a soldering gun to adhere two metal pieces together. brazing or tig welding would be better.
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lockout arm
Originally posted by HayZee518 View Postthat part is the sump lockout arm. it is spring loaded that toggles over center. when you have too much fuel or not enough fuel the arm moves over center and stops the fuel flow. it operates off that black float arm. it does NOT prime anything! Instructions say to press this thing once or twice. what you are doing is moving the needle valve off its seat to fill the fuel bowl. it also resets the toggle. you can try to fix it but I don't think you can get it hot enough with a soldering gun to adhere two metal pieces together. brazing or tig welding would be better.
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trip lever
all I know is from my experience with the M41. too much fuel the needlevalve tang actuates the lever into lockout and when the float drops to the bottom it also trips the lever. the lockout lever sort of floats on the spring between the two points.
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lockout arm
you are right Mr Fitz.
A friend of mine has one. I opened up the sump and looked. full up motion locks out the toggle. all the way down it opens the needle valve. pressing the red tang from the outside resets the toggle and opens the needle.
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