2200 monitor e 13

[Bryand]

If you have plenty of fuel coming into the back of the heater and the heater is shuting off that quick it has nothing to do with the fuel unless you have water in it but at your temps the water would freeze before it got to the heater. The heater will run a while on what is in the sump. You are not going to have a big amount of oil coming out of the top of the pump. It will be a spray but that spray turns into a little more once it is reduced down in the oil line. It sounds like your problem is either carbon on the burner sensor, sensor touching the burner ring or the oil line to inside the burner. I know you said the oil line was clean but you need to be able to run something down inside it at least 4 inches. I think a 1/8" bit will still work in the 422 and 2200's but if not go down one size. If you use a small peice of wire and the carbon is built up good it will not push thru the carbon. If it is built up enough you will have no choice but to drill it out. I had one that two different repair men worked on at least 2 times a piece and once I got there it was the oil line. People think they have cleaned it out good but a lot of times they have just not went far enough.

[creekie]

more deadends

Thanks for all your insight and patience with this problem I am having. It been good to have the feedback. I have been doing things twice.
When I was having the problem with the fuel a few months ago, it was yellowish then turned clear after draining about a gallon or more out. I drained some fuel out of the drop leg at the outside tank and the other monitor (2400) feeding off of the same tank. The fuel wasn't and isn't dirty or rusty or discolored anymore, everything is very clean. Everything ran fine for a while up until now. The 2200 went down again. It has been warmer lately, about -15C or 5F. I have drained any fuel from the tank yet to check for fuel separating or water in the tank. The other monitor(2400) T ed off of the same line, same tank and it is working fine. I did put a container of hot shot in a full tank a couple of months ago. A lot of people in town use it, we do too at work for the monitor 422.
I have good flow of fuel inside the house going straight to the heater. The filter and about 3 feet of 3/8 copper tubing is also inside the house, so it can't be frozen. I can easily blow through the fuel line coming from the pump going to the burn chamber. (I ran telephone wire through it recently). I hand twisted a one eighth drill bit 4 inches down the fuel nozzle into the burn chamber, found no resistance as it gentlely bottomed o
I took apart the pump assembly a little while ago. I took the pump out, sprayed it with brake cleaner, took the top plate off the pump reservoir and had a peek inside. the plastic lever was on the bottom and the reservoir was half full (the fuel could have drained out) When I inspected the plastic screen on the bottom of the pump, it was clean but appeared to have a bumble inside it. I shook it out and sprayed it with brake cleaner, then washed it in clean fuel and reinstalled. The heater is still misbehaving. It lights, glows with an orange weak flame, I can hear the pump and then it slowly goes out. I have pressed the red buttom and slowly released it several times. I have also compared it with the working monitor 2400, putting my finger over top of the pump when the fuel line is off. The 2400's pumps much more fuel at a greater pressure than the problem monitor 2200. I believe the problem lies within the pump, or plunger, or something. They are temporary out of pumps at our monitor dealer in Whitehorse.

[HayZee518]

pump

I have cautioned people over and over again about taking that pump apart. one tiny item out of place and you may as well throw the thing out.
if you are sure the thing is pumping fuel, take it off the plate and position it inside the round float. just let it hang off the cappillary. the kerosene level in the sump should be around 3/4 inch off the bottom.
don't allow the pump to touch the float.
start the unit and watch how fast fuel enters the sump when the level starts to go down. if it keeps up with the demand of the unit then the feed rate is ok. if the feed is slow and the float rises way up, then the pump isn't doing its job.
time to get a new pump.
NEVER TAKE THE FUEL PUMP APART.

[hawkins111]

check flow rate first

I have seen very few partially serviceable pumps. Most of the time they either work or they don’t. This very seldom happens. I think you should check the flow rate of the pump before you change it out. Use a flame sensor by pass and some kind of container to catch the fuel. Check the fuel flow on high for ten minutes and measure it. You should get .164 GPH, or .03 gallon in 10 minutes. If there is a problem you can check it on Low, .07 GPH or .01 over ten minutes. It might be a little trouble getting it to run Low for 10 minutes. Try setting the stove up on Economy Plus using the flame sensor by pass. At some point you will be able to get it to Low and then you can get the flow over ten minutes. All this being said I think the burner pot needs to be cleaned and a new mat installed as well as a new burner ring. Tom

[Bryand]

I agree with Hawkins most pumps either work or they don't. I have seen a couple that would quit when they went to high but only 2 times in 25 years. Is the bottom of the pump clean. If you are going as far as bypassing the sensor why not by pass it with the oil line hooked up and see if it runs longer that it was then you will know if it is the burner sensor having carbon on it or touching the burner ring. I would love to have this stove in my shop for just a few minutes.

[creekie]

continued

Well, I think I may have found the problem. The pump flow and reservior looked good. Thanks for cautioning me not to take the pump apart. I didn't.
Here are some images of my findings.

[hawkins111]

M2200

Creekie,

How long had that stove been in service and did you buy the heater brand new? Tom

[creekie]

I bought the heater September 2006. I use it as a backup. The monitor maybe runs 10 - 20% of the winter. I would be surprised if it has consumed more than 750 gallons since new. And yes I purchased it new.
Thanks for you interest.
I wonder what caused such severe wrapping of the cone to make it fold in like that.

[hawkins111]

M2200 burner ring warped

From the appearance of the burner mat it looks like the flame was irregular. Over time the mat will erode and cause a poor flame. The burner ring warping could be caused by the poor flame. The heating and cooling of the metal components during the cycle can cause the ring to warp as well. Be sure to inspect the bottom of the pot to be sure there is no warping of the bottom. If you can live with a difference in temperatures the Economy Plus feature will cause the stove to cycle a lot less. Less cycles means a longer time between overhaul. Thanks for sharing your project with everyone. I hope the remainder of your overhaul goes easy. Tom

[Bryand]

I bought the heater September 2006. I use it as a backup. The monitor maybe runs 10 - 20% of the winter. I would be surprised if it has consumed more than 750 gallons since new. And yes I purchased it new.
Thanks for you interest.
I wonder what caused such severe wrapping of the cone to make it fold in like that.

Almost 7 years is not bad before having to rebuild. This is common as most of these heaters are rushed to the limit. Being so small view are harder to work on so the burner mats and rings don't get changed as often. The bad place in the mat is because that is the first place the oil fires and the hottest place. Make sure to clean the air holes around the oil inlet as they are bad to stop up.

[HayZee518]

heater [in general]

I'm trying to figure out how the heater functions [in general]
you have a source for combustion air [bottom inlet] from the blower, flows up around the inside chamber.
there are holes near the bottom. do these act as a venturi to channel the kero vapors up around the inside chamber to the outlet(s) near the burner ring?
once the vapors come out of the holes, they ignite and cause the blue flames, which in turn heat the burner ring and make it glow red/orange etc.
the heat in the pot goes through the finned heat exchanger, where the blower sucks in room air, heats it and is blown out into the room.
does this sort of explain it?

[creekie]

finally

Well, changed out the cone, cleaned everything and replaced the burn mat in the pot, when I started the unit after all the work and allowing for curing time for the glue, the monitor behaved the exact same way as before.
It would ignite with a very low orange flame, pump ticking away. It stayed lit for about 30 seconds then go out and again e 13. The cone, mat and chamber rebuild wasn't the solution.
I ordered a new pump, it finally came in yesterday and I installed it right away. Now the monitor has a strong blue flame and is working perfectly.
I am wondering what hppened to the old pump and is there a way I can fix, maybe change the orings or something. At this point is doesn't matter if I damage the old pump, I just really want to see what went wrong and avoid it for next time.
I also ohmed out the new pump (1351 ohms) and on the old pump I don't have any continuity. The small copper wires to the stake ons and back to the coil are intact.

[HayZee518]

pump coil

did you include the resistor in your "ringing" out? or just the coil.
just trying to figure out where it opened up. doesn't seem possible for the internal wires to just open up.

[creekie]

ohms

yes i did and got OL this is when probes are across the stake on connections. The resisiter reads 357ohms.

[creekie]

meter buggered

I used a different meter and got 1030 ohms across the soleloid posts of the malfunctioning pump. We also took it apart carefully and found nothing obvious wrong with it. I wonder if there is a rebuild kit for the pump or if it is just garbage?