kerosun monitor 30 heater

[vipmaint70]

Hey guys a friend of mine dropped off an old kerosun monitor 30 heater for me to repair a few weeks ago
and i rebuilt the burn chamber with new combustion ring, gaskets, cleaned out heat exchanger and blower assembly replacing all gaskets and motor bearings. I have never messed with the constant level valves and fuel systems on these units before aside from cleaning them out and replacing the filters...have never had one that was bad and had to be replaced. But the heater burned for about two weeks perfectly well and then shut off but it will burn as long as you pick up on the rod for the fuel pump.

[Bryand]

On this heater you have a cut off for the oil inside the heater. Cut the oil off but it works backwards. Once the handle comes off in you hand it is off. Clean the filter in the front of the carb. and also take out the big screw to drain it. If you have any water on the filter in a 30 it will not allow the fuel to flow. If that don't work check your fuel selinoids to see if they are good. I have taken them out and cleaned them put them back and it work fine. Did you clean the oil line out going into the burner. These are worse for getting stopped up than the newer heaters.

[vipmaint70]

I have cleaned the carb well, it did have some dirty fuel in the bottom but nothing i haven't seen before on the newer models...no signs of water being present in carb or burner itself. I cleaned the line going into the burner and from the tank to the heater. this particular model has two solenoids on top of the carb they call the fuel control valves and also has two in route to the burner pot called the safty valves...which i'm not familiar with, and there is nothing in my service manual except for the resistance and voltages of each which i have checked with a meter and are all relitively close to specs. got me kinda stumped for now. guess i'll take the solenoids out and see if i can clean them anymore and run across everything i missed. i attached some pics from the parts diagram to show everyone what i'm dealing with a little better...thanks for you help i'll run back accross everything and see if i missed something. thanks

[Bryand]

You should have rubber hose going from the top of the carb over to the combustion blower. Make sure it is not cracked or come off. Also take a long drill bit or a coat hanger and run thru the copper line going into the blower. If it gets carbon or any type sut build up in that line or over the opening at the blower it will also cause you problems. You won't have to drill it or force it and may not even notice that you acomplished anything but it does help. This hose brings air from the blower over to the carb. I am probably telling you stuff you already know but not a lot of people have ever worked on a 30.

[vangasman]

Every year on the first start up I have to do the same thing. Usually only takes once and it works fine after that.

[vipmaint70]

I took the solenoids back off and cleaned them again...soaked the carb overnight in carb cleaner and replaced the rubber hose coming from the blower and this morning its running fine...so i'm assuming there was something in there obstructing flow to the burner. or like you say it could have been that hose to the blower cause it was pretty rough...i replaced all those hoses for like 4.00 got the hose in 3 ft section at advance auto parts. I still get a few monitor 30's and 20's still in this area so i'm pretty familiar with them but its weird i've gotten two in the past week and this one had been sitting in a basement for 10 years. anyone needs any information or help with them or any heater or appliance i'm here to help. thanks byrand for you help!

[Bryand]

Your welcome about all my 30's are gone very seldome do I see one anymore and hope I don't. Also not really liking the 2400's either. Nothing better than a old 41. If I can ever help let me know.

[viking**]

Your welcome about all my 30's are gone very seldome do I see one anymore and hope I don't. Also not really liking the 2400's either. Nothing better than a old 41. If I can ever help let me know.

Bryand,sure would like to hear why you don't like the 2400,my 30 went south
I picked up a 2400 that was used 3 years,your thoughts.
Tks

viking**

[Bryand]

My two real issues are the control board. Almost impossible to rebuild even by electronics company. Made some parts in the board that are not available.
The combustion blower is impossible to rebuild. Everything is rivited together at least with the older units you could rebuild them. Also get error codes from the combustion blower that you did not get with the older units.
Oil lines going into the burner are breaking off even faster than the old unit.
I just think they are cheaper heater at a larger price.

Bryand,sure would like to hear why you don't like the 2400,my 30 went south
I picked up a 2400 that was used 3 years,your thoughts.
Tks

viking**

[viking**]

My two real issues are the control board. Almost impossible to rebuild even by electronics company. Made some parts in the board that are not available.
The combustion blower is impossible to rebuild. Everything is rivited together at least with the older units you could rebuild them. Also get error codes from the combustion blower that you did not get with the older units.
Oil lines going into the burner are breaking off even faster than the old unit.
I just think they are cheaper heater at a larger price.

Thanks for quick reply Bryand,I just installed the 2400, started good,I just hope it last a couple of winters before trouble starts.I run the 30 for about 7 years
with very little problems but thats because I had a spare 30 for parts being the 30 is now an antique I figured i would upgrade.thanks again.
viking**