Level Valve (carburetor) questions for Monitor 40

[trouts2]

The foot of the reset rusted off. I believe it was due to water in the level valve and a common problem after many years. I have a replacement lever. The question is about how to install it.

The foot part of the lever has a hole in it. Going through that hole is a U shaped I’ll call a clip. The top parts of the U clip both are bent at 90 and sit
in two standoffs coming up from the bottom of the level valve.

When the level valve parts are assembled it seems that the U part is threaded through the bottom of the reset lever and a spring is also installed on it. The
spring goes to the top of a flap that the reset lever pushes back to reset the float position (I think).

So, the reset lever and spring go on the U and the U gets places on the two standoffs.

The issue is I can’t get the U out.

I unscrew the float an put it aside. I remove the top of the spring from the flap then lift out the flap. (the ends of the flap fit over the arms of the U when the U is in place on the standoffs.

At this point the float is out, the flap is out, the bottom of the spring is attached to the U along with the foot of the reset lever. I want to take out the U so I can put on the new reset lever. I can’t get the U out. How does the U come out?
It looks the top of the standoffs were punched at installation time to capture
the top arms of the U. ?? Not sure.

[hawkins111]

I'm sorry I can't help you with the old style sump. It has been over 20 years since I have seen one. They are different from the newer style. The very new (from 2000 or so) have even more changes. If you do have to change your sump you will also have to change the fuel pipe.

That being said I would inspect the inside of the sump closely. If water has caused the lever to rust you may have corrosion in the sump casting. If that is the case you will need to up grade.

Tom

[hawkins111]

sorry for the orientation

[trouts2]

Journeyman,

The posted level valve is quite a bit different than mine. I have three that are all the same with the same part number stamped on the inside.

The reset lever in the picture resets the float by pushing the that tang on the float down. The reset lever end on mine goes all the way to the bottom of the chamber about 3-4 inches and rests on the chamber floor. On the bottom of that lever gets captured by the U clip I mentioned above. Evidently there were at least two types of level foot. One had a hole so strung onto the U clip. The other has a U cutout and the U slipped onto the U clip. The pictured unit does not have a U clip and the lever no elongated foot. If the picture is of a Monitor 40 level valve then there are at least three variations.



The problem I had was getting the U clip out from the standoffs. The problem there was the U clip was captured on the standoffs by peening over the tops to keep the U clip in place. Evidently it was a non-repairable item.

Given that I had two level valves that were useless I took a chance with breaking them to try a fix. The fix was to get a good reset lever out and put it in the other one with a rusted foot.

That was done by prying out the U clip with a screwdriver. I worked it back and forth several times to get it released from the peened over standoff arms that captured the U clip ends. The clip was removed and with that the reset lever came out. I pried out the other level valves U clip and put in the good reset lever.

On my version of the level valve the U clip captures on end of a spring with a bent circle that slips onto the U clip. I put the U clip with the spring and U cut foot of the reset level back in place then forced the U clip ends back into the peened over standoff arms. It took many tries to get the U clip back in place but eventually got it back in place on the standoffs.
With the new reset lever in place the resetting of the float now works properly.
The lever works differently than that one in the picture. This one pushes a plate in back of the needle valve. When the plate is pushed back an arm on it lifts the float up to a starting position and closes off the needle. The spring on the U clip runs to the top of the plate and holds the plate and float in the reset position.

I’ve given it many resets and it all seems to work as it should so I think the level valve is fixed and ready to install back into the monitor.



In the pictures you can see the U clip with the peened over ends of the standoffs. The clip runs from a standoff down to the bottom of the sump then up to the other standoff. The clip holds the spring bottom and the foot of the reset lever. The reset lever pushes against the plate with the top of the spring attached. The plate is also captured buy the arms of the U clip.


The sump casting is not rusted. The foot of the reset lever was rusted off so the original cause of the problem.

The repair person who worked on mine did not know much about the inside of the lever valve. He worked on them for many years and rebuilds them but I think servicing the lever valve consisted of swapping a bad one with a complete good one. For example if a needle valve was defective I think the whole unit was replaced.

Thank you for the help.

David

[hawkins111]

Sorry Trout. The picture I sent you was a M30 sump. Sumps are kind of touchy. Monitor never sold any parts for them short of a filter and gasket. For piece of mind I never did any work on a defective sump. I always replaced the whole thing to reduce any liability in the future.

Tom

[msearcher]

Carburetor replacement

Sorry Trout. The picture I sent you was a M30 sump. Sumps are kind of touchy. Monitor never sold any parts for them short of a filter and gasket. For piece of mind I never did any work on a defective sump. I always replaced the whole thing to reduce any liability in the future.

Tom

I do have a carburetor if you need a replacement.

send a private message to me about it if interested.

Tom