Monitor 441 Heater

[HayZee518]

remove the tube that goes into the combustion pot and put it into a small jar. let the unit cycle and see if you are getting fuel. no fuel, no flame. next check the air proving switch. with the blower winding out the switch should be closed allowing the pump to operate. also in series with the pump are the plenum over heat sensors. these should also be closed. the computer is reset when you unplug the unit. merely turning on-off won't do it.

[wavit64]

remove the tube that goes into the combustion pot and put it into a small jar. let the unit cycle and see if you are getting fuel. no fuel, no flame. next check the air proving switch. with the blower winding out the switch should be closed allowing the pump to operate. also in series with the pump are the plenum over heat sensors. these should also be closed. the computer is reset when you unplug the unit. merely turning on-off won't do it.

1) Did test fuel flow, and verified flow, pulsing fuel coming out, consistant with what I would expect with a tube of that size. This was done with the proving switch connected.
2) Jumpered out the proving switch. Still no ignition
3) Unit was unplugged for 1/2 hour.

When I pulled the ignitor, it did get hot, started to glow in the center as a matter of fact. At that time it became uncomfortable for my SIL to hold so I disconnected it. Is it possable that the ignitor is bad to the point that it wont heat up enough to ignite the fuel but still get warm? When the unit was functioning I would feel heat at the bottom of the pot and on the exhaust extension tube (unit is in the basement). Not now.
If I check with an Ohm meter, and I assume all the switches should be closed during purge, that would mean I should get 0 resistance, correct?
I should remind the forum that this is a 2100, not a 441.

[hawkins111]

2400 troubles

Rich,

You can have a partial igniter, but they are very rare. Check the igniter with your OHM meter (B connector wires). It should read 12.7 OHM’s at room temp. Much more than that will be a problem. The igniter should be bone dry, no fuel on it at all.

Remove the fuel line at the burner and run a wire down the nozzle into the pot. It should go 3 inches or so. If there is a blockage no fuel will get into the pot.

Are you sure the window is not sooted? You need to be able to see into the pot. This is important and should be the first thing you do.

Your 2400 can be made to show the level of the burn instead of the temps. It’s a matter of pushing the Hour and minute button at the same time for a short period.

n-- -- off or pre heat
n00 Ignition, pre combustion
n0000 High
n000 Med
n00 Med Low
n 0 Low
n-- -- Post Purge and Off

Keep us posted,

Tom

[wavit64]

Rich,

You can have a partial igniter, but they are very rare. Check the igniter with your OHM meter (B connector wires). It should read 12.7 OHM’s at room temp. Much more than that will be a problem. The igniter should be bone dry, no fuel on it at all.

Remove the fuel line at the burner and run a wire down the nozzle into the pot. It should go 3 inches or so. If there is a blockage no fuel will get into the pot.

Are you sure the window is not sooted? You need to be able to see into the pot. This is important and should be the first thing you do.

Your 2400 can be made to show the level of the burn instead of the temps. It’s a matter of pushing the Hour and minute button at the same time for a short period.

n-- -- off or pre heat
n00 Ignition, pre combustion
n0000 High
n000 Med
n00 Med Low
n 0 Low
n-- -- Post Purge and Off

Keep us posted,

Tom

Window may be sooted, but I dont have the replacement gasket for it right now. The combustion chamber is not getting warm.
I replaced the ignitor yesterday and before I installed it, I connected it to the MB and let the unit cycle. Glowed red hot. Installed new ignitor but no ignition.
I back tracked myself and pulled the top off the CLV along with the float assy and found some gunk in the bottom of the sump. After cleaning the sump and pump strainer and on re-assembly I discovered to my chagrin that the sump was not filling because of a faulty pressure regulator placed during install of the unit. Replaced the unit with a ball valve and the sump fills promptly. Perhaps too quickly as the float got caught on the magnet.
Still no fire.
Removed fuel line to bottom of pot and confirmed that unit was pumping, nice fuel flow.
Found a thin rod (actually a straigtened clothes hanger) and used that to clean out the feed to nozzle. I could only get it in about 1 inch or so. Was coming back with sooty kero. Gave that a shot of carb cleaner and re assembled.

No luck!

Any other suggestions, or is it time to bring the unit to a dealer?

[HayZee518]

take the fuel cappillary right off the unit. use a piece of 24 ga telephone wire without the insulation and run it full length through the cappillary. on the nozzle end use a 1/8" drill with your fingers and clean it out. now connect to your sump and stick the end into a jar and run through a start cyle. you should see squirts of fuel coming out. have you checked your burn mat to see if it is coming up off the pot floor?

[hawkins111]

M2400 fuel nozzle

Rich,

The fuel nozzle needs to be clear. It is about 3 inches or so long. Even when you get it clear the stove might not light due to the carbon inside the pot right at the nozzle outlet. If that's the case you will need to remove the pot. A cleaning and new mat and ring will be in order. Since you have tried so many time and have not had a flooding issue, it is clear there is no fuel getting into the pot. You don't want a flooded pot. It is a mess.

Tom

[wavit64]

WE HAVE FLAME!!!!!!!

Woo Hoo!

No way was I going to pay $50.00/hour for a tech to look at it.
Heres what I did wrong:
While reading the threads, I read about using the 1/8 drill to clean out the connection between the pump tube and the pot. I ASSUMED that the line going to the combustion chamber after the connection fitting would be the same size. Naturally, it is not. I pulled off a strand from some 4/0 copper grounding cable and used that on the line actually going to the pot. At first I had a lot of resistance, I got a little frustrated and figgured what the heck, it dont work any way so gave it a good shove! Well that was all it needed.
Unit fired up right away.
It sputtered a little shortly after, but I released the float and continued to run.
I still have the fuel pressure reducer off line, and I cleaned it out. I'm going to let it go through a couple of ignition cycles to make sure that the fuel pressure from the outside tank does not over whelm the CLV. May get a new pressure reducer tomorrow but I'm well on the way to having heat.

Thank you for all your suggestions!

[HayZee518]

See what happens when you're persistent? Problem solved!

[wavit64]

I appreciate all of the suggestions posted!

[vb345]

Arne - I have a monitor 41 which is one series BELOW the 441. I do all my servicing on the heater. I have a pdf file for the 441 which I could email to you. as far as a repair manual, you'll never get one. NO ONE on this green earth will EVER sell you one. I tried to get one through MPI but since I'm not an authorized dealer, no way. Some replacement gaskets I was able to get from mc master- carr industrial supply and a piece of boro-silicate glass for the view port.

Hello,
My name is Mike and I am having the same problems as people from this forum with the kerosene Monitor 441. Please email me the pdf repare manual to vb345@hotmail.com
Thank you in advance.

[HayZee518]

check with dfitz or hawkins. I don't have the manual anymore.

[vb345]

Thank you.

[vb345]

Hello hawkins111. If you have, please email me a pdf file for the Monitor 441 maintanence. I am having problems with it. Thank you.

[smith674]

Monitor 441

Hello. I have read through some of the posts here but I am still a bit stumped on my heater problem. I purchased our new house and we have two monitor heaters. The one I am having issues with is my 441. It will fire up and run for some time but when it gets close to or even over the disired temp(on economy mode) it will shut down and flash the burner light will flash. The fan keeps going for a period of time but as I think it should and then that shuts off. The burner light continues to flash. I read the manual and it mentioned cleaning the filter ans any dust. All that has been done to no avail. I have a lift pump as well that has a filter and I have cleaned that too. Still no luck. Anyone have any ideas. It seems to be an overheat issue but I am guessing. Any repair manuals out there or some outside knowledge would be more than grateful.

V/R Matt Smith

[smith674]

Manual

Were you talking to me Hayzee?