The DEFINATIVE Monitor Thread

[mkadyz]

Do you know where the damper adjustment is located? Ive looked through the manual and cannot find it. Do you think I need to take the cover off of the intake-air fan? It seems the damper assembly is located inside that.

[HayZee518]

there is no damper adjustment for the 20, 40, 41, 441 and 422. all the damper is - is a solenoid operated plastic flapper that opens when the heater kicks into high heat otherwise it stays partly open. the 2200 and 2400 has an o-ring that modulates as the heater kicks into low-med and high highest heat. so don't worry about it. the solenoid is inside the combustion fan shroud.

[marvl]

fuel supply problem

Fabulous, informative forum.

I have an old Kerosun Monitor 20 heater, not used for about 10 years and used only infrequently prior to that. I tried to fire it up last week and do not see any flame in the burn chamber. Disconnected the fuel line from the front of the chamber and do not appear to be getting any fuel. I think the fuel filter is OK as fuel does go thru it, so I am assuming the problem, based on an older post, may be the float on the solenoid pump (??). However, I am not sure where this is nor how to get to it on this heater. Can anyone offer some assistance.

When I download the PDF file, I only get the first 35 pages or so missing the entire service portion of it. I'm not sure how much applies to the Monitor 20 in any case.

TIA

[mkadyz]

there is no damper adjustment for the 20, 40, 41, 441 and 422. all the damper is - is a solenoid operated plastic flapper that opens when the heater kicks into high heat otherwise it stays partly open. the 2200 and 2400 has an o-ring that modulates as the heater kicks into low-med and high highest heat. so don't worry about it. the solenoid is inside the combustion fan shroud.

So then I guess I don't understand how to fine tune the air fuel ratio. You must be able to adjust something or no one would ever get a good flame. The manometer page in the service manual seems to imply you can adjust the damper on a 22 which I have. I do know that ive got a orange flame and it needs to be blue. When I first bought the house a few years ago I had a guy come out and rebuild it under a home warranty I got with the house. He made some adjustments to the flame after the rebuild, but I don't recall what he did.

[mkadyz]

Fabulous, informative forum.

I have an old Kerosun Monitor 20 heater, not used for about 10 years and used only infrequently prior to that. I tried to fire it up last week and do not see any flame in the burn chamber. Disconnected the fuel line from the front of the chamber and do not appear to be getting any fuel. I think the fuel filter is OK as fuel does go thru it, so I am assuming the problem, based on an older post, may be the float on the solenoid pump (??). However, I am not sure where this is nor how to get to it on this heater. Can anyone offer some assistance.

When I download the PDF file, I only get the first 35 pages or so missing the entire service portion of it. I'm not sure how much applies to the Monitor 20 in any case. TIA

Marvl, the entire manual is there. You might have just got a bad download.

[HayZee518]

Monitor Heat

All monitor heaters have the fuel inlet on the right side. They're all made of cast white metal with a steel lid. Fuel enters this bowl on the left or rear side. The 20, 40, 41 enters on the left side. There is a cylinder cast into the white metal that houses the filter, center bottom. A gasket and screwed on cover completes the filter chamber. Screwed to the top plate is a bracket that has the solenoid pump on it. It looks like a white coil with three solder connections on it and two quarter inch spade connectors on it. On top the fuel tube unscrews from its connector. The pump body has very fine mesh stainless steel filter. The pump gets its pulsating signal from a transistorized controller that interfaces between the pump and the computer board. A relay on the computer board closes when the unit's calling for heat to supply the pulses for the pump to operate. When the pump is operating, you can put your finger on the pump tube and feel the pulses it makes.

[mkadyz]

Update: I just fired up the Monitor again to give is another shot. My flame really isn't all that bad, but it definitely could be better . Ive got a blue flame with some orange tips all the way around. It is also doing some other stuff that is a little strange. When ever it comes down from high fire the flame goes to complete crap. Im talking an orange smokey mess. It all seems to point to the combustion fan to me. I ordered a new pressure switch but it will take a week to get here, in the mean time I may pull the cover off of the combustion fan and have look. The orange flame coming off of high fire is completely new though, it never once did that before I took it apart. Which leads me to believe it has to do with something I changed.

[HayZee518]

my old 41 heater made a lot of soot and yellow flame. the guy at the monitor supplies said the combustion fan didn't have enough rpm-s to produce enough air. a new motor costs 146.40. when its going bad it sounds like a jet engine whining up.

[Greg_Cornish]

Monitor

Update: I just fired up the Monitor again to give is another shot. My flame really isn't all that bad, but it definitely could be better . Ive got a blue flame with some orange tips all the way around. It is also doing some other stuff that is a little strange. When ever it comes down from high fire the flame goes to complete crap. Im talking an orange smokey mess. It all seems to point to the combustion fan to me. I ordered a new pressure switch but it will take a week to get here, in the mean time I may pull the cover off of the combustion fan and have look. The orange flame coming off of high fire is completely new though, it never once did that before I took it apart. Which leads me to believe it has to do with something I changed.

I have a monitor 441. For a year I've been getting techs to come out and try to get it running right. It never seemed to come completely up to temp and shut off. It ran all the time. Then it would give the flashing lights. If I turned it on and off again it would run quite a while then do the same thing. The interior was very sooty every time the tech came out.

On the 5th service call they tried to adjust the burner pulse because it was pulsing to fast. If you touch the copper pipe going into the burner it should give a pulse. Mine was giving a very rapid pulse. The tech adjusted the screw indicated in the photo to slow the fuel rate. It affected it a little, but no enough. He finally said I needed a new motherboard. It was $495. I said stick it in and if it doesn't work take it out and take it back. He did. It worked like a charm.

I'd called lots of places on the net and they all told me it was a motherboard, but it was.

Now my question is. Is there anyone who can repair this Mother board. It would be nice to fix this part and have a spare. The only reason I wanted the 441 running like a new one is I've ordered a Toyotomi 60 AT and want to sell the Monitor 441, but I refuse to cheat anyone. Okay it won't let me post a pic on my 1st post but go to gregcornish dot com and then add slash a.jpg

[HayZee518]

there is a place in Lumberton NJ that does repairs on all kinds of circuit boards.

[Greg_Cornish]

there is a place in Lumberton NJ that does repairs on all kinds of circuit boards.

Would you happen to know the name or number of such a place.

[HayZee518]

yeah, had to look for my papers -
plccenter dot com. they receive your board, examine it, determine what's wrong, will call you with a price quote. then its up to you go with the repair or just junk it. they will charge you $5.00 for an examination charge - per board.

[Greg_Cornish]

yeah, had to look for my papers -
plccenter dot com. they receive your board, examine it, determine what's wrong, will call you with a price quote. then its up to you go with the repair or just junk it. they will charge you $5.00 for an examination charge - per board.

Thank you.

[mkadyz]

Greg, thanks for the pick of adjustment pot. I will look and see if mine has that.

As of right now Im waiting for a new pressure switch to arrive. Im thinking that my old switch may have been working fine, and it was doing exactly what it was suppose to do - not start up with out the proper air flow from the combustion fan. By jumpering the switch maybe I made it run when it didnt want to which is why I have a yellow flame on high fire. I did take a resistance measurement across the combustion fan. Service manual says 22 ohms, and Im at about 20.5 ohms. It also makes the jet engine noise that Hayzee describes, but only when it first starts up, and has been making that noise for about a year or longer. This is just a hunch, but I feel like my board is ok. Its timing when it is suppose and seems to be working like it should, however I haven't taken a meter to any of the test points yet, so as I said, its just a hunch. The pressure switch is suppose to be in some time next week so Ill keep everyone informed of what happens.

[HayZee518]

The bearing for the combustion blower is a 608 Z bearing. I'm sure there's American cross references.
Inline skates all use 608 bearings. The "608" means that the bearings are from the 600 series, with a 8mm inner diameter (the width of the hole, i.e., internal bore). The "6" appears to be for the 6mm difference between the inner and outer radii (from the outside edge to the edge of the hole).

608 bearings are also the standard size for skateboard bearings. Quad skates use either type 608 (8mm internal bore) or type 627 (7mm internal bore). The 608's for quads are the outdoor bearings. If your bearings have letters following the "608" (like "S", "Z", or even "ZZ" or "SS") it is the manufacturer's way of denoting sealed or perhaps double shielded bearings. An "RS" label means shielded but that the shields are removeable (i.e., serviceable bearings). To make sure what they mean you should probably check with the manufacturer, since it can vary from company to company.