The DEFINATIVE Monitor Thread

[HayZee518]

manual

check with fordman he's got the pdf file.

[Lefty]

Bummer

This Service Manual PDF is

no longer available?

Thanks,
Lefty

[HayZee518]

as a rule every heater should be thoroughly cleaned every two years of use. some people let it slide only to find thier's is creating lots of soot and the unit may go into lockout. what causes the sooting is inadequate air pressure from the combustion blower. the flame at the burner pot should be a turquoise blue color with occasional yellow tips because of imperfections in the K-1, or a little water. the burner ring always has the property of warping over time or the welds that hold it together break and the ring deforms. the burner mat may destroy itself and lift or warp upward off the burner pots base creating hot spots in the chamber. you state there is a half inch of built up soot. its a wonder the flamerod still functions. first order of business is take the unit out of service. remove the pot, careful there is a gasket underneath it. the pot fastens to the heat exchanger with four screws. flip the pot over and remove the sleeve inside. clean all the holes in the inner sleeve. replace the burner mat. replace the burner ring if it is warped. clean the flamerod and porcelain. change the bearings of the blower 608Z bearings. if yours uses sleeve bearings, make sure the shaft isn't sloppily moving in the bearing if it does replace the sintered bronze bearings.

[Vinnymeyer]

OK, this may be a dumb question - but how do you know if the burner pot needs to be replaced, or just cleaned? I have two Monitor 41's - one of which I bought new in 1989, I think, the other I bought "reconditioned" from an large outfit in Maine. I took the easy road, and swapped out my original unit for the reconditioned one, which ran OK for about 2 years. Now it's making tons of soot - and the inside of the burner has about a 1/2 inch thick layer of crud in the bottom.

Also, has somebody ever posted step-by-step directions on removing and replacing the burner pot? Two service people I talked to today make it sound relatively easy to do, as long as you know what to watch out for.. not quite sure what they mean.

Thanks,

V.

[HayZee518]

check my answer on your new thread.

[Hoodie]

422 Modifications?

I'm in the middle of replacing the burn chamber & ring on my 422 and have run into the unexpected. This unit has been rebuilt in the past by the local dealer that is now out of business so I'm SOL on finding out what he did. I do have a new burn chamber (#6182).

The problem is the difference between the two chambers where the fuel nozzle goes in. The old chamber has a long fuel nozzle & cover as pictured in the 441 parts list. The old nozzle will not fit in the new chamber and the new chamber came with a very short insert that does not protrude into the burn chamber. Did this guy put a 441 burn chamber into a 422 unit? If so, why and can I use the 6182 chamber I have with the short insert (nozzle)?

Thanks for any help in advance

[wavit64]

WE HAVE FLAME!!!!!!!

Woo Hoo!

No way was I going to pay $50.00/hour for a tech to look at it.
Heres what I did wrong:
While reading the threads, I read about using the 1/8 drill to clean out the connection between the pump tube and the pot. I ASSUMED that the line going to the combustion chamber after the connection fitting would be the same size. Naturally, it is not. I pulled off a strand from some 4/0 copper grounding cable and used that on the line actually going to the pot. At first I had a lot of resistance, I got a little frustrated and figgured what the heck, it dont work any way so gave it a good shove! Well that was all it needed.
Unit fired up right away.
It sputtered a little shortly after, but I released the float and continued to run.
I still have the fuel pressure reducer off line, and I cleaned it out. I'm going to let it go through a couple of ignition cycles to make sure that the fuel pressure from the outside tank does not over whelm the CLV. May get a new pressure reducer tomorrow but I'm well on the way to having heat.

Thank you for all your suggestions!

[wavit64]

E-13 Error code driving me nuts!

Ok, heres an issue that is totally driving me nuts!!!!
Vital Stats:
Monitor 2400 about 5 years old with no major repairs (except replacing a burned out ignitor about a year or so ago). External tank, fresh filter (less than one month old). Had some water in the fuel a long time ago, but unit has not been acting up since then. Because of the height of the external tank I placed a pressure reducer just before the heater. I have changed nothing in the set up since the day I installed it except what was mentioned.
Recently, the unit has been failing when left on automatic mode, and I noticed it was "short cycling" (firing up, bringing the room to set temp then shutting down very quickly - in the space of like 10 minutes), something it has never done before. I set it to "Economy Plus" mode weeks ago and it HAD been working fine.
Now, not so much!
Constant E-13 codes.
Heres what I did. Not in order:
1) Un plugged unit for 1/2 hour
2) Checked Fuel pump: it IS passing Kero through the small feed line to the combustion chamber.
3) Checked fuel sump. Looks good, even fuel level and no trace of water
4) Jumpered out the air pressure sensor
5) Checked voltage to the ignitor
6) Cleaned off the flame sensor rod
7) Pulled ignitor and watched it as the unit went through purge cycle. It started to glow red hot in the center and became uncomfortable to hold in bare hands (Thank you willing but gullable Son-In-Law). S.I.L states, "The *&$%# thing is HOT".

Placed the ignitor back in the combustion chamber, but the bottom of the chamber does NOT get warm to the touch as it has in the past. Very strange.

I still get the E-13 code! It almost acts as if it does not "want" to light if that makes sense.

Needing further suggestions, very VERY soon.

[HeartRockFarm]

service manual

My first post - won't let me post a link to the service manual. You can try copy/paste or email me: heartrockfarm at wildblue dot net

h-t-t-p-s-slash-slash docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=explorer&chrome=true&srcid=19JGXtT-Wkuk47dA2ZOniKqZ6DeY6XcMyVQ1O675yDTToLeSUWuSAu28TY q0Y&hl=en&authkey=CNWo-_sN

[adnadeau]

O-ring info

HayZee,

Somewhere back in this thread you mentioned you hadn't found any O-rings in the combustion blower. Here's some info that isn't in the manual. I found the remnants of the mysterious O-ring when I replaced the blower bearings in my 441 this summer. It was located in the inner compartment in the blower housing where the solenoid is mounted. It's 11mm OD, 7mm ID, 2mm wide (McMaster-Carr part No. 9262K167). It sits on a groove at the end of the solenoid piston and acts as a bumper to deaden the shock when the piston pulls in to close the damper.

[HayZee518]

three people I know have the downloadable manual - huemongus, adnadeau and hawkins111. as well as the eBay site.

[windaddy]

Service manual, Monitor 441

Has the service manual been reposted somewhere else? I get an "Invalid or Deleted file" message at Mediafire. I see it's a couple of years old. I'm going through some issues with a Monitor 441 now. This thread has been very helpful. Thanx!

[HayZee518]

only difference I found is the toyo laser uses an extra exhaust fan and the physical arrangement of components is different.

[hawkins111]

Toyo and Rinnai

HayZee,

It would be great to set up a forum for Toyo and Rinnai. Please, if you do keep them apart from each other. Rinnai's are all gas and Toyo's are all oil. They are not similar in most respects. As you probably have noticed on FixYa it is a nightmare. Hope to see the new sites soon.

Tom

[HayZee518]

glad to hear its working - I'm gonna try to set up a section on toyo stove and rinnai