The DEFINATIVE Monitor Thread

[trickshifter]

fyi when i took my monitor apart i recognized the gasket material it is a high temp 1800/2300 degree paper used in the hot glass industry. you can do a google search for kiln shelf paper or GO TO SUNDANCE GLASS ART then search for fiber paper you can get it from 1/8" to 1/4"

[HayZee518]

glad to hear that! now I got to find out information on TOYOSTOVE and RINNAI heaters and start a forum on those.

[Jannie Patterson]

Hi...I wanted to let you know that today I picked up my solenoid pump in town and put it in the Monitor and it began working like a champ!!! Thank you again so much for all the ideas and input...really helped me out a lot. :-)

[Jannie Patterson]

Just an update...I went to town and ordered a new pump. I checked the Constant Level Float like you had suggested. It seemed right. It will be a couple of days now for the pump to get here. I will let you know how it works out. Thanks again for all of the imput :-)

[HayZee518]

I don't like to give up until ALL AVENUES have been exhausted and then feel bad because I couldn't help you. I wish I knew more about the microprocessor board.

[Jannie Patterson]

Thanks I'll check this stuff out and let you know what I discover...thanks again for all of the imput...the help is much needed and much appreciated!!! :-)

[HayZee518]

yes, carefully pull off the two electrical spade connections off the pump body, unscrew the brass ferrule on top of the pump and remove the tube, remove two screws that hold the top plate and remove straight up. look inside at the float level. if it is flat, level and you see fuel that eliminates the fuel level. the tank IS getting fuel. if it is up and being held there by the magnet. too much fuel too fast is getting into the sump. reset the float by pressing the red button. this will release the float. put everything back together and make sure the pump body isn't touching the float. start the unit, after purge the pump should come on. you already verified the combustion pot igniter is on by the warmth you felt. if nothing ignites then change out the pump. this is the ONLY thing left keeping you from getting fire. check out a couple of other things. the big round air pressure switch has a switch on it. temporarily jumper it out. On the sheet metal air plenum are two switches connected in series, jumper these out too. The other one is for your fan - don't jumper this one out. then, fire up the unit. if it fires up, remove the jumpers one by one until you find the device that's keeping your ignite circuit from activating. after that only thing left is the computer microprocessor failure.

[Jannie Patterson]

Hi...when I first got the error message I put a new filter in out there by the tank. To be truthful, we have had the stove about 4-5 years and it was the first time we had put a new filter out there. The valve stem is wide open and after the pump quit making any noises the other day now nothing comes out of the copper little pipe going to the combustion chamber. It was spurting out some fuel when the pump made the noises. The float looked level but when I opened it to clean the filters I had turned off the fuel inside so no fuel was in the fuel sump. I think that is the float you are talking about...right?? I could open the sump again tomorrow with out draining it and see if it is level if that is what I need to do...thanks for the help...I appreciate it

[HayZee518]

ok, you have an outside tank. the valves used there and maybe the heater are called fusible link valves. the knob screws onto a 1/4-20 thread on the valve stem. make sure they are wide open. when they are wide open the stem will come up through the valve knob. it is a gate type valve with a movable stem. take the filter element right out of the filter at the tank. get a new one later on. with fuel going into the fuel sump the round float should be about level, hence its name CONSTANT LEVEL CONTROL. when you cleaned out the fuel line did you get any fuel out of it when the pump was running? get back to me please.

[Jannie Patterson]

Well, I did some testing today and the igniter seems to be working, it warmed up. No fuel seemed to be coming out of the copper tube that goes to the combustion chamber so I undid it again and used a wire and then we checked and the flow from our outside tank was slow, almost nonexistant so I took the compresser and blew out the pipe to the house from the tank. It made a good amout of sound and seemed to be flowing much better so I hooked it back up and tried it all again and still it would not fire off. I am beginning to wonder about the little pump now. It looks OK and is not making strange sounds but what else could be preventing it from firing off. I may just have to take it in to town but I REALLY didn't want to have to do that and I can't imagine why it is so hard to figure out. I do appreciate your suggestions and will try any others you might have but perhaps it is beyond me...I hate to admit that :-)

[HayZee518]

ok, something to check before the system even fires up. when the unit is in purge mode, that is the combustion blower is running, feel the base of the combustion pot near that silver shaded cap. this cap covers the igniter. if the igniter is functioning, the metal bottom will feel warm to the touch. don't worry you won't burn yourself. if you can't feel any warmth then the element might be burned out necessitating a replacement igniter. when the solenoid pump is trying to pump fuel but there isn't any then you'll hear a click, click, clicking sound from it. if there is fuel in the sump tank and the fuel pump is running but no fuel goes into the "pot" the end of the fuel line might be clogged. remove the gland nut that goes into the combustion pot and remove the copper fuel line and hold it over a jar or can and operate the heater. if the pump pumps fuel into the jar, shut off the heater - if nothing comes out then the fuel line is clogged with carbon at the "pot" end. a piece of small telephone wire will just fit the cappilary tube. completely remove the tube from the solenoid pump and run the wire through the whole length of the cappilary to clean it of carbon. the brass extension that's in the combustion pot may be clogged with carbon. this must be removed with an eighth inch drill bit. just stick it in there and twist it around with your fingers. don't chuck the drill bit in a drill. once you've done all this cleaning put the fuel line back in AND start the unit. it will go into a purge cycle. feel the pot for warmth if the igniter is working. after purge listen for the pump, pumping fuel. if you have fuel and the igniter is working then the kero should ignite.

[Jannie Patterson]

Thanks for the info. I opened up the sump and the little pump and cleaned them out. The screens did look pretty gummy. Then I put them back together and tried the 2400 again. Since I cleaned the carbon off of the flame rod in the combustion chamber it has not been igniting at all. The burn light comes on but I don't see flame in the chamber. Before I cleaned in there it would light but then go off with the error sign. The pump is now not making any strange noises but actually I didn't hear any from it after cleaning...that may be good or bad??? Not sure! I will again open the combustion chamber and see if perhaps I knocked something into the way of the fuel but after that I am not sure what else I can check. Any ideas are appreciated. Thanks

[HayZee518]

E-13 indicates no flame. if there is water in your sump, kerosene will float on top of the water. change the filter on your external tank. I have a 2400 here at home. I looked into the sump about a week after I got the EE-13 lockout. The float is a round plastic affair with a piece of sheet metal fastened to the upper part. when there is too much fuel, the float comes up and is held there with a permanent magnet. this action in turn closes the needle valve. that red button on the side just releases the float. on the bottom of the fuel solenoid there is a stainless steel screen that gets clogged with a brown gel. that gel stuff comes out of the kero whether its dyed or undyed. clean it off with spray gumout. inside the sump is a stainless screen about 1 inch long held there by a spring and the gasket and plate. clean this off also. once you've eliminated the water, there's no reason for the heater not to fire up. you've already eliminated one cause - the flamerod.

[Jannie Patterson]

Monitor 2400 Heater Won't Fire Off!

My Monitor 2400 will not work. Was running then suddenly it would not stay lit and gave the E13 error. I looked at your forum and decided I could do some of the tests myself. At first it was igniting but then just going off. I did find a carbon bridge to the flame rod and cleaned it with a qtip. Now after cleaning, it doesn't light at all. The burn light comes on and I can hear the solanoid pump making sounds but it won't fire off. I bled the lines some in case of air and cleaned the little place on the side. I took off the copper line and it seemed OK at its point of entry to the combustion tank. Any ideas what I could check or do next? Not much experience at this but husband is ill and I am willing to try any suggestions.

[HayZee518]

inside of the fan shroud there is a solenoid connected to a plastic flapper. when the flapper is open maximum air goes through the tubing to the combustion pot - like when your heater is on high heat. as the temperature is reached, the flapper closes minimizing air to the pot. some sites mention an O ring. I have yet to spot an O ring on this type of heater, just the flapper. also, inside of the flex that goes to the outside connection there is an insert that restricts the amount of air that is drawn into the combustion blower. you could try removing the insert and see what that does to your flame. it might increase the air flow and increase the efficiency of the heater. other than a bearing going bad on your blower there isn't much else you can do.