Monitor 422 Burner ring cleaning/replacement

[2lobsta]

Anyone have a checklist for stripping down to the burner ring for cleaning or replacement? By visual inspection thru the viewport, my burner ring seems badly carboned with oily carbon from the 1 oclock to the 6 oclock positions. The flame sensor is carboning quickly after cleaning when I attempt to restart. When the ignition cycle begins, there is good blue flame from the 8 oclock to the 12 oclock position, followed by increasing yellow flares from the 1 oclock to 4 oclock positions. I can't really see what is happening between the 4 0clock and 8 oclock positions, but my flame sensor is at abour 5 oclock and soots up quickly. Any suggestions welcome! I live on an island off the Maine coast and it's a challenge to haul the unit to the nearest serviceman (he's very pricey) about 25 miles away.

[HayZee518]

to get to the burner ring, you need to remove the front grill, the top plate, the heat shield behind and below the top plate. remove six screws that hold the top burner chamber top and gasket. don't crumble the gasket. the flamerod screws into the side of the chamber with two screws. with the chamber top off, look inside the combustion chamber. the burner ring rotates clockwise until three spring clips release. you can then remove the burner ring. around the internal circumference there are holes that admit air. clean these holes with a wire brush and vacuum out the chamber. look at the burner mat. if it is curled up replace it. it must be glued down to the base with rutland cement product #77. look at previous posts about the burner mat. I sent a guy in a maine island some information about a monitor. check out this forum for his location.

[HayZee518]

yellow tipped flames almost always indicate insufficient combustion air. this may indicate three things - a blocked intake pipe [spider webs], combustion air blower bearings [608Z] closed air damper solenoid. kerosene when preheated forms a white vaporlike fog that sinks to the bottom of a pot. air flow through the combustion pot draws this fog through the pot's bottom holes and blows it out through the top holes where it is combusted into a blue flame.

[hawkins111]

M422

This is what is wrong with most M422s. The burner ring has mushroomed out around the top part. The top part of the ring is over the bottom part and is exposed to the flame. Since it is only tack welded at 5 points, most of the surface is free to warp with the heating and cooling of the flame. This happens to almost every M422 burner ring. It can take anywhere from a year to 5 years. Once your stove starts quitting and has a bad flame it’s time to look at the ring and burner mat. If it’s been 3 to 5 years since you have had a service, it’s almost a give’me what the problem is. You may have other problems as well, but the ring and mat should be the starting point. This repair cost the owner $200.00, parts and labor. The Monitor parts cost about $175.00. For you DIY’s try the Carswell Distributing site on the web. They have a parts break down page that will be helpful.

[hawkins111]

M422 repair

Sorry, my math is a little slow. This job cost the customer $300. $175 for Monitor parts and $125 for labor and test.

Tom