Copper Fuel Line Capacity

[TechEditor]

With this intense cold we have been experiencing this winter, I was thinking of installing another small Laser in the Kitchen.
Here is my setup now: From the "gravity tank", 3/8" copper to a standard filter, then 3/8" copper to a "T". One leg of the "T" goes to another "T" where it splits to a Laser 73 and a BS36U Water Heater. Back at the 1st "T", the 2nd leg goes to a Laser 30.
Now I seem to remember that I read you can only operate 3 items on a 3/8" line. I am thinking of adding another Laser 30/300 on the 2nd leg. I believe I can get away with it because the BS36U only runs occasionally for 12 - 15 sec at a time.
If I can't get enough flow, my other thought is to put some kind of 1 pt reservoir located outside of the BS36U to act as a buffer for when that unit fires, that would then be refilled when demand drops.
Ideas or comments appreciated.

[hawkins111]

The science behind fluid flow and head pressure are against you if you think a small reservoir inline with your tank will help you. The reservoir will have whatever pressure the line has. Every T, fitting or reduction in the line will have a cumulative effect. What I would do is use a separate line for the Laser 30's. Put a manifold on the outlet of the tank so you can install shut off valves in order to service part of the system without shutting down the whole thing.

[TechEditor]

Hadn't thought of a manifold. Would have to wait until the tank is completely empty though. (And I would prefer not to shut down the entire house for as long as it takes to re-plumb and its accompanying air embolisms)
I do have valves for each leg, see here: http://www.homerepairforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2750&d=1424640216

The lower right blue handle ball valve is the "IN", the upper right blue handle ball valve is the "OUT" to the Laser 30. The left blue handle ball valve is the feed to another setup like pictured where it branches to the Laser 73 and the BS36U.
With that said, do you think I can get away with putting two 30's on the same leg considering all the rest of the load on the 3/8" feed line?
Thanks for any help you can be.
Greg

[hawkins111]

If you have good head pressure I'm sure it will work. If the stoves are more than 18 inches below the bottom of the tank there should be enough pressure. Those compression fittings are a no no. Use flare fittings. Do you have a valve on the tank now, and where is your filter?

[TechEditor]

My tank is at 18" head. I set it up that way with a rotating laser. See images for tank and valve and filter.

Had to get the tank quite high to get that 18". The stand is cross braced and welded.
I understand why you don't like compression fittings but after I redid all my connections with loose ferrules, I had no more leaks. I tend to have cracks in my flairs and I am sure that is my technique. So it is just easier for me to use compression fittings.

[hawkins111]

You seem to have plenty of head pressure due to tank height. Since you have a filter and valve on your tank, it should not take much to build up a manifold. Because the filter is so close to the tank you may have to do the straight out part and then install the valves and end fittings. You could then hook up one manifold and finish work on the other one. I like to keep the copper intact all the way to the stove if possible. The less fittings inside your house the less chance for a leak.

[TechEditor]

Here is an update on the flair vs compression discussion. I always had problems with my flairs, very hard to make, some cracked and most leaked. It was just easier to use compression. I was discussing the matter at work and I was asked to bring in my flair tool so it could be examined. When I did, I was told what I was using was junk!
The tool allowed the flair head to go off center and it was a swaging style. I was told to purchase an eccentric style. And they found me the correct tool on Ebay! So my flair tool went into the metal skip at work for recycling!
When the new tool arrived we did some test flairs and it was 1000% easier! No longer did I have to practically stand on the tool to get enough pressure to make a half-ass flair. This tool slowly rounds the pipe into shape on each turn of the T-handle and it clicks the T-handle out of driving when you have reached the proper flair.
So I reformed the new copper line to the L-73 that needed a new length when the living room walls and floor were redone.
Before with swage flair tool:
After with eccentric flair tool:
Obviously it was my original flair tool that caused me to dislike flair fittings!
Now will I re-do all my compression fittings? Not likely. They are installed and working w/o any leaks.
My Laser 30 fuel line:
Now at least I know it was the tool and not me and I can now do future kerosene lines with confidence.

Greg