Toyo 560 E6 and E2 messages

[Bustech17]

Hi everyone. I have a Toyostove 560 and it's going on it's 2nd year in my workshop. Been working perfectly since I got it. I have the fuel tank that slides into the unit, but last year I installed a 275 gallon tank outside so I didn't have to mess with filling it everyday. End of last year I unplugged it and covered it up for the summer to keep the dust out of it. Side note: I run #2 fuel oil in this unit and add 2 quarts of K100 into the outside tank. I'm dealing with about 3/4 of a tank left over from last year. Fire it up for the first time to make sure it works tonight and it ran for about 10 minutes and shut down with an E6 code. I Checked the fuel supply and the strainer at the unit and all was clean. I reset it and it went tough the warm up cycle, fired up on Hi burner mode and actually started heating up the workshop. About close to the selected temperature, it kicked down into Medium Burn Mode, the fuel pump was thumping along, lots of orange flame through the window, and right into the E6 code again. I've cleaned the flame detector, removed the ignitor and cleaned that, and rechecked the strainer which was clean. I don't really know what else to do. Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks!

[hawkins111]

Number two fuel oil should not be used to fuel a L560. Even if you use some kind of anti gelling agent, the stove will not burn #2 clean enough to keep from sooting up.

In addition to the fuel issue, you may have to clean the burner and install a burner mat in the bottom. L560 did not come from the factory with a burner mat. They came with a burner coating and that will only last a while before it vaporizes away. If you order the burner mat for a L56, # 20474113, you will get the glue. Mix the whole tube up on a flat and only use about half of it. Try not to push too much of the glue up through the mat weave. Let it dry completely before use.

[Bustech17]

Thanks for the response! I remember reading one of your other posts about the L560 not having a burner mat. I just ordered the one you mentioned. I understand about using the #2 fuel oil. It's mixed with about 30% white kerosene, maybe a bit less. I may have to hook the internal tank back up until I can transfer the #2 over to the house furnace.

I have downloaded a service manual for this model but it doesn't go into too much detail about burner servicing. I think I can figure it out though.

Thanks so much for your answer to my question. I may lean on you in the future. 😁

[hawkins111]

Anytime. Thats what we are here for.

Tom

[Bustech17]

Just a follow up. I cleaned the burner, and like you said, the coating was just about gone. I lightly sandblasted what material was left and used Acetone to clean up the surface for the burner mat installation, mixed up the glue and used about half of it and installed mat. I let it dry for 48 hours, and reinstalled everything back to its original glory. It went through it's warmup cycle and when ignition happened I could see a yellow flame through the window but it wasn't impressive. Unit shut down with an E2 code, which I thought was normal since the fuel was shut off. I reset and retried and this time there was no flame at all. I tried 3 times until the E22 code popped up. I could here the fuel pump on the original start up, but it doesn't seem to be getting fuel. I drained the sump and removed and cleaned the strainer. Before reinstalling the strainer I quickly turned on the fuel valve and fuel flowed pretty well from the sump so I reinstalled the strainer and pushed the red button once for good measure. Restarted and still no flame at all. I removed the fuel line from the nozzle, and removed nozzle for inspection. It was clean. Tested igniter and got 17.5 Ohms which I believe is in range. Also I could feel heat coming off it during the warm up cycles.

Is there a way to bench test the fuel pump?

Thanks,
Des

[hawkins111]

The best way to test the pump is to remove the copper fittng at the burner and try to start the heater. While you are at it, run a rod or wire down the fuel nozzle into the pot. You should see fuel flow after about three minutes. There is a procedure to test the flow, but it is involved. If you are getting flow, you are good to go.
With the use of #2, the pot can get a lot of carbon build. You would have seen that when you installed a new mat.
I think you have a blocked nozzle.

Keep us posted,

Tom

[Bustech17]

Ok, so when I came home I just hit the power button for the hell of it and walked away. It cycled and fired up with a perfect flame through the window. I was shocked... but not optimistic. It kicked into full burner mode because it was 54 degrees in here and I had it set for 60. The workshop was starting to heat up and after about 4 minutes I could hear the pump change it's tune. The flame died down and the E6 popped up on the screen. I immediately pulled the sump drain and there was plenty of fuel flow.

I then came back onto this forum and saw that you had responded, so I pulled the fuel line fitting at the burner and turned on the heater. After the warmup and the start of the ignition cycle, I could hear the pump thumping away but not a drop of fuel was to be had. Getting closer I suppose. What is inside that sump where the fuel pump is? Is there a float with a needle and seat in there? What is the real purpose of the red button? What does it actually do? Can the sump be safely disassembled for inspection and cleaning? I'm thinking that should be my next step. Thoughts?

Oh, BTW, I had the nozzle out yesterday and it was clean all the way through.

Thanks,
Des

[hawkins111]

It sounds like a fuel problem. Low fuel, low tank level in relation to the bottom of the stove, no vent, plugged filter. Fuel can gradually drain into the sump, but not fast enough to stay full.

The sump does have a valve to keep the fuel level at a certain point. The float opens and closes the valve. Yes you can service the float and valve, if needed. Be very careful to test the level after service, to make sure it does not over flow.

The Red button is an overfull or float too high release. If for some reason the fuel level gets too high or the stove get bumped hard the float will move upwards and get stuck on a magnet. This will shut off the fuel to the sump. When you push the button (one time for one second) the float will be released from the stuck up and closed position to a normal floating position. The button is not a primer!!!!

Your manual should explain the fuel sump operation pretty good. Could you take a picture of your filter and tank arrangement? It does sound like a fuel problem. If the unit sits for a while and fuel can drain slowly in and fill the sump. As soon as you start using fuel, the sump goes empty.

This is a long shot, but is the filter in the right orientation as far as the In and Out??

[Bustech17]

OK, well, stick with me on this and see if it makes sense. I haven't had time to fiddle with this thing for a bit, but I wanted to wrap my head around what is actually happening, and I have a theory I want to run by you. When you mentioned the magnet for the float it got me thinking. When ever this thing shuts down with an E6 code, the red button has some resistance to it as if it is stuck on a magnet. Now I haven't pulled anything apart yet due to time constraints. But if I push the red button down for half a second to, for lack of a better term, "release the float", the machine fires up like it did when it was new.

At around the 7 minute mark there seems to be a 'yellow flame' flare up and then dies down and the E6 pops up immediately. If I lightly touch the red button, it feels sticky again. I did this several times to see if I got the same result and I did. I went on to other projects and came back to it an hour later, hit the button quickly and powered it on. Went through the warmup cycle and fired up like before but this time it ran for quite some time and was warming the shop up nicely. For some reason I went over to the stove to notice fuel is filling up in the tray. Yikes! I shut it down with the power button and let it do the cool down cycle. I mopped up the fuel and looked for where it may be coming from. Luckily the fuel is red dyed so it was easy to see. Anyway it looks as though there is fuel coming up through the red button on the sump... at least in that area. I don't know yet if there is a problem with the needle and seat, or the float level is out of spec. Maybe the best route is get the new sump and swap over the pump. Just a thought.

I didn't plan on having this many issues with a 2 year old heater, but I am learning a heck of a lot about the operation of it, and what problems I'm having are possibly self inflicted...LOL

As far as the filter and tank setup, It's a new 275 gallon tank with a Westwood F25 filter right off the bottom outlet, and the fuel outlet is approximately 16 1/2 inches above the floor where the heater sits. No restrictor used. This setup was used all last season with zero issues and it is on all the time, meaning I never turn off the power button and the room stays at a minimum of 54 degrees and programmed to come on 1 hour before I leave work ant a temperature of 62 degrees. And it's 3/4 full right now so I'm not worried about the tank position.

Cheers,
Des

[hawkins111]

From what you stated, it sure looks like the sump valve is leaking by. This would allow the stove to start and run for a bit then turn off with an EE6 message. Fuel is filling the sump and the float is moving up to point the magnet holds it closed. There must be debris on the valve seat, allowing fuel to continue to fill the sump to the point of overflow. You will need to shut the fuel off, or it will continue to overfill. You will need to clean the valve or replace the sump. If you service it, be sure to test the sump to be sure it shuts the fuel off. Thanks for sticking with it and keeping us posted.

[Bustech17]

Yes, I shut the fuel valve off immediately. I'll be out of town for a couple days and won't be able to get back to it until Monday. I'll share what I come up with at that time. Have a great weekend!

[Bustech17]

I was able to get home earlier than expected, so I was happy that I could get to work on the Toyostove. Of course as things usually go for me, the house furnace was out when I got home and the radiator in my wife's Hyundai decided to bleed all over the driveway while I was gone. Not a problem. It's only 31 degrees with a nice stiff breeze to spice things up.... Ugh.

Luckily Napa had a radiator for the Sonata, and I actually had a spare transformer and electrodes for the house furnace. That killed quite a bit of my day, but they're both up and running again.

Now on to the fun part! I pulled the sump/fuel pump combo out of the L560 and pulled it apart on the bench. There's not much to these things to be honest. I took a picture of it in case I got interrupted after I unscrewed everything. There was a little bit of fuel still in it, so before I dumped it out, I took my slide in tank and hose and hooked it up to the sump so I could visually bench test it. Turned the fuel valve and and observed the fuel rise up past the float and over flow all over the catch basin I had it in.... BINGO!

So I unhooked the tank and dumped the fuel, pulled the screws that retain the float and needle/seat assembly and removed it for inspection. The sump was full of grit and grime on the bottom of the sump and the needle was gunky as well. I removed the filter from the sump and the fuel pump as well to clean them up. A little carb cleaner in the metal parts did the trick and I used acetone on the needle and a Q-tip down the tube where the needle sits. I made sure the moving parts were all clean before reassembly. The float arm itself had what seemed like a cosmoline coating on it, which was probably keeping the float from moving freely.

I reassembled everything and hooked my "test tank" back up and observed the fuel level. It brought the float up and shut the fuel off about 3/16 of an inch from the magnet, so I assumed that would be good. I didn't touch the adjustment for the needle since it's been fine all along.

The heater has been on and running for about 4 hours now, cycling on and off from a set temperature of 62 degrees, and the flame is a nice blue and there isn't a drop of fuel anywhere in the cabinet. WHEW! I'm finally able to work on other projects now. After this adventure I have much more confidence on working on the Toyostove. And I honestly couldn't have done it without you Hawk! I sincerely appreciate your wisdom and guidance throughout this process and answering all of my long and rambling posts in a timely fashion! Installing the burner mat was the best thing I could've done to this unit. The folks at and "energy" place up in your neck of the woods disagreed with that, but I understand they have to say that because of manufacturers recommendations. I bought the burner mat and glue from them and installed it anyway.

So that's my story. I apologize for the really long posts, but I hate to leave out any pertinent details that could possibly help someone else out along the way

Stay warm brother and thank you again!
Des from the backwoods of Upstate NY

[Bustech17]

Quick update.... Middle of December and the L560 is still going strong! Merry Christmas to everyone here! Enjoy your families this Holiday Season.

Des