Combustion leak igniter

[woodauger]

I start this new thread because the leak described came back. A CO leak analyzer narrowed the search to the ignitor. After replacing the guide gasket, it is now liberally leaking out the grommet surrounding the two ignitor wires. Before I assume that a replacement will solve this issue, should I be looking further into a failure cause? The grey grommet has a discolored split from the hot gas. Is four years an unreasonably short life for the ignitor? It’s a about a four hour drive to an authorized repair person. Thanks

[hawkins111]

The center of the igniter is sealed with a ceramic plug. That plug can come out and if it did you would have a leak. The hole that goes through the igniter usually fills with carbon and is seldom a problem. Four years is a short life for an igniter.

What model stove do you have? You stated "the guide gasket" was replaced. What about the igniter gasket? That is the metal ring that goes on the igniter. Some older stoves have a rubber igniter gasket. That should be replaced with a metal one.

If the wire insulation is brown, the stove has gotten hot. The wires are soldered onto the igniter. If the insulation is brown and cracked, there is a chance the solder has separated. I would change the igniter. You can save the old one "just in case". Be sure to clean the circulating fan and screen, to help keep the stove as cool as possible. The louvers should be as open as possible on the front panel.

[hawkins111]

I do see you have a Laser 300. You did state the heat exchanger gets red hot. That is an indication of a bad burner mat and ring. Four years is a good run for a L300. I believe that high flame has caused the igniter to get very hot and split the insulation. It could have also de-soldered the wires. They may be still making contact due to the insulation holding them on. It is time to service that unit.

[woodauger]

Laser 300. I followed the manual on regular igniter cleaning procedure. Nearly never run on high. Air from a blower runs freely through the heater now. I scraped out carbon from rear of ignitor and glued the cap back on with Rutland to test. Ordered a new one also. I am still hoping a temporary obstruction in the outer air chamber of the burn pot has carbonized. I don’t see any easy way to check that passage besides removing the fan panel on the rear. I did find insects in that opening. On a brighter note, my 422 is running great from a rebuild years ago based on your instruction. Expecting new ring this weekend. I assume the Mcmaster mat I used in the Monitor will work for the Toyo?

[woodauger]

Repaired ignitor no longer leaks, but the smell is still there. I notice the flange between chamber and exchanger is not an even connection in front after the heater warms up, coinciding with the odor becoming noticeable. The ring (removed) looks straight and correct. The mat is lifted under the fuel supply rod only. There was no yellow in the flame, but the blue area around the ring pulsated as if the air supply was unsteady

[woodauger]

Thanks for everything. The torn burner mat alone was causing the problem. Maintenance lesson learned. I hope your snow load wasn’t unreasonable. We’re looking at lake effect by Thanksgiving