Crackling/sizzling noise

[machinist]

That's awesome, Bodrey! Great job troubleshooting and seeing it through to the end. It’s interesting how the missing ground affected the tester, definitely something we can all learn from when dealing with this kind of issue. Must feel good to have everything wired up correctly and working as it should. Well done!

[TinyTool]

Congrats on getting everything rewired and working properly!

[JimmyMechanic]

Wonderful! So glad!

DONE!!! I finished re-wiring the entire circuit and re-installed the GFCI today. Of course, I tested it before putting everything back and it's all good. It turns out that I should not have gotten any indicators lighting up when I tested the GFCI previously when pressing the GFCI button. When I tested it on my kitchen GFCIs pressing the button caused them to trip their breakers. I'm surmising that the absence of a ground wire (from the run between the panel and the junction box) meant that the tester was not able to properly test the GFCI as intended (tripping its breaker). Instead, because of a lack of ground wire, it threw a "hot/neutral reversed" fault. Problem solved - finally!

[Bodrey]

Thanks everyone. Yes, I'm glad I was able to resolve the issue. The fix wasn't quick or easy (is it ever?), but having to replace the run between the panel and the junction box was a blessing in disguise because there was no ground. It needed to be done anyway, and as a result it also cleared up the false negative I was getting with my tester.

[fejog]

Update:

I bought a new WR-rated GFCI and wired it in exactly the same manner as the old one and I'm still getting the same result with my circuit tester - hot and neutral reversed. Under the pretense that it is in fact wired correctly, I decided to reverse the wires on the light switch (since I observed the sizzling sound coming from the GFCI when the light was on in addition to it flickering). After reversing the light switch wires, I placed my voltage tester near the light switch and the tone was now coming from the bottom terminal, the same as the fan switch. So, then I suspected that the light switch wires had been reversed. However (and again), when I plugged my circuit tester into the GFCI I got the same result. I'm not aware if the orientation of wires on light switches matters, but in this case it didn't make a difference; the light comes on regardless.

The only other thing that I can surmise (and I suspect) is that one of the other two pairs of wires going to the GFCI should be on the Line side, and the pair connected to it now should actually be on the Load side. What say you? Otherwise, I don't know what else I can do to try and rectify the problem. When I put the voltage tester near the brass terminals on the GFCI I got a tone from both the top and bottom.

A sizzling or crackling noise from your GFCI suggests a loose connection or internal failure, which can be dangerous. The reversed hot/neutral reading, despite the wiring appearing correct, could indicate an issue elsewhere in the circuit. Turn off the breaker and check for loose connections at the GFCI and other outlets on the same circuit. If any wires are backstabbed, move them to the screw terminals for a more secure connection. If everything is tight but the issue persists, the GFCI may be faulty and should be replaced. If the problem continues after that, it's best to call an electrician.