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  • 422

    rebuilt burner, fan would not come on when full burn activated, blue flame, hotter than hell, bypassed 3 heat sensors, got hot enough to melt, fan did not come on, why does the fan in the back not come on ???? need help, thx

  • #2
    assumed you pluged it back in ok? Did it work ok before? Does the fan turn ok or is it blocked?

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    • #3
      fan spins free, burner was shot, had fixed last year, they told me it would work a year before i had to rebuild, it did, when i turned it on this year, it wouldnt got to full burn, i cleaned the filters, they were dirty, it still would not come on full burn, i put new burner and gaskets in, got good blue burn, element is glowing red, but when it kicks to full burn it flashes for about 10 second then shuts off fuel, then goes into the shut down mode. the big fan in back will not come on. im baffled

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      • #4
        circulating fan

        Greg,

        With the power on to the unit (the stove does not have to be burning)do you have 110 volts at connector C? If you do not have a meter just make up a piece of insulated wire you can touch the two sides of the Fan Thermostat switch. It is the one on the top of the heat baffle with Red and White wires, leave them connected. With power on the stove and the wire connected, the fan should come on. Without a Volt Ohm meter you can’t go much further.

        Keep us posted,

        Tom
        Last edited by hawkins111; 11-13-2011, 10:53 PM. Reason: wire color

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        • #5
          headed to work now, will try thursday when i get home, thanks

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          • #6
            just checked it, jumped all of them one at a time, the one with red wires sparks but fan does not come on, how many volts is the fan, can i run some juice through it to see if it works. will do thursday, thanks

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            • #7
              Circulating fan motor

              Bad fan motor. The Red and Black wires should show 235 OHM's. The Black and Yellow should show 247 OHM's. Very unusual for the fan motor to go bad.

              Tom

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              • #8
                thats what i figured, not home now, on the road, will check it out when i get home, just know that when the sensors are not bypassed, the heater kicks into full burn, must be something in the circuits that tell it not to go to full burn if the fan is not turning, im assuming the motor is 120v, ill borrow the meter from my neighbor and figure it out thursday, appreciate all your help, feel like im going to school. greg maybe its a bad connection, will check out the wiring. fun fun. thanks

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                • #9
                  Yes, the blower is 120VAC, but you can't easily pull the C plug off and put power to it directly. The third wire (red) goes to capacitor C1 which must be in the motor circuit for it to run. The red wire should be the left-most wire when the C plug is in place. The black wire should be on the right. The other lead of C1 is connected on the PWB to the middle pin. If your borrowed multimeter can check capacitors, connect it to the left and middle pin on the PWB (pull the AC plug out of the wall first!) The 441 value is 1.5 uF; I don't know if that's the same for the 422.

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                  • #10
                    just put the meter to the 422

                    ohms between red and black on fan motor, disconnected at back of unit, 245. ohms. between black and yellow, 0, i got nothing. i have 110v at the "c" connector, is it the fan motor or do i need to check anything else. thanks for all the help. greg

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                    • #11
                      circulating fan motor

                      Greg,

                      You need a circulating fan motor.

                      Tom

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