2200 monitor e 13

[creekie]

First of all I would like to say that this forum is very informative and helpful. I have found many tips and put them in practice but still can not get my monitor going. When I plug it in and turn it on the combustion fan come on, then after a bit the pump starts, I can see flame in the chamber pot almost all the way around , it's mostly blue witha bit of yellow/orange, then the pump quits and a few moments later the e 13 code comes up again. Nothgn I have done has changed this orginal condition.
This is what I have done so far. I have bled the line at many fittings, replaced the inline fuel filter (which is inside), cleaned the filter on the sump pump (not dirty), pulled the flamerod and omhed it out (0.4 ohms), replaced the gasket. I also have cleaned the 1/8" fuel line to chamber pot with doubled up telephone wire and then poked around the chamber pot with a 3" piece of coat hanger wire, trying to see if I can feel carbon. When I stick the coat hanger wire into the chamber (about 3 inches), it feels a bit stuck at the very end) I am afraid to stick the wire in any further and this little 2200.
I'm starting to think that it may be that little screen I have read about on the bottom of the pump. It looks impossible to get the pump out to check as there is no room for a screw driver unless I find a really short stubby phillips. I also think it may be the fuel. I only went thru 1/3 of a tank last winter.
I live in the Yukon where minus 40 has been the normal for a week or more. I wondered if I should but some of that hot shot stuff into the tank.
Any ideas on what else I should do? If I cannot fix this thing I will have to put it on a truck for a 6 hour drive to the dealer.
Thanks for reading.

[creekie]

also

also I have pressed the float valve red button to release the float and allow fuel into the sump. I wonder if you can check the 1/8 fuel line that goes into the chamber when it is unattached from the chamber pot? I want to be sure that the pot is getting fuel.

[HayZee518]

solenoid pump

here's what you can do. shut off fuel to the sump, unplug the heater. now remove the two spade terminals from the pump. unscrew the brass gland nut on top of the pump and remove the tube. use a short phillips screwdriver and remove the two screws that hold the pump on the top plate. remove the pump. unscrew the two screws in opposing corners and remove the plate. re-fasten the pump to the copper tube and tighten the gland nut. re-attach the spade terminals. now, orientate the pump to the middle of the float taking care not to touch anything that might restrict the movement of the float. the solenoid pump will just hang there in the middle of the float. re-establish the fuel flow to the sump/ you can watch and see when the flow stops by the motion of the float. plug the heater back in and start a cycle. now watch as the heater goes through a heat cycle. as the pump shifts into high and pumps more fuel into the pot, it should be replenished at a fast rate. if the float drops all the way to the bottom the unit will lock out and the cycle will stop. if the tank shows signs of overflowing stop the fuel flow as the magnet that normally locks out the unit is on the cover.
your concern is that the tank doesn't fill fast enough to keep running.

[creekie]

finally

Hey, I got my monitor going. It turns out that the fuel was gelling because of the cold and prehaps old fuel. I put a treatment of Hotshot in the fuel tank, bled a tons of fuel from the lines. I changed the filters again and cleaned the sump pump screen with brake cleaner. I couldn't find and gum out in this town.
I have made a fix it troubleshooting document from all the helpful information on here to help me out next time.
Keep up the good work everyone and special thanks to HayZee.

[HayZee518]

2200

Thanks for the follow-up on what you found and what you did to get around this issue. there are others in here that deserve equal ground.
dfitz, fordman and hawkins111 are the best in their dealing with monitor heaters

[creekie]

not again e13

Well it has happened again, e13.
I just finished for the evening trying to fix my 2200 with no luck. I thought perhaps it was bad fuel again, but the fuel looks good. I checked and cleaned the sump filter, cleaned the in line filer, checked for obstructions from the fuel line going to the pot, nope, the fuel line, nope, clean as a whistle.
I have a good flow of fuel up until where it exits the pump to the 1/8 th fuel line. At the top of the pump, it pulses and just sprurts a bit of fuel.
I just recently read Hayzee post earlier this month. I wonder if this is the step I am heading to next?
Any other suggestions before I do this???

""sump

ok, here's the way to proceed.
take off the front panel. unplug the heater. shut off the fuel flow. make a trough out of aluminum foil and place it between the side panel and bottom of the sump below the two screws. feed this into a shallow pie tin. crack open the large philips screw and drain the fuel from the sump.
remove the two spade terminal wires from the pump and put aside. remove the brass gland from the top of the pump and place the cappilary aside.
unscrew the fuel line from the back of the sump with a 13mm open end wrench. go in the cw rotation.
unscrew four screws that hold the sump to the heater bottom and remove the whole tank.
remove two screws on opposite corners and remove the top plate and pump assembly.
now look inside. any brownish looking crap needs to come out.
saturate the inside with GUMOUT carb cleaner. clean anything inside with a Q tip and gumout and rinse out with gumout and compressed air.
remove two screws and take out the needle valve assembly and float. don't lose the O ring.
spray gumout into the seat.
blow out the seat. examine the needle valve on the float. if the rubber tip is missing you'll need a new float and valve,
now reverse the whole procedure and you're done.""

[hawkins111]

M2200

Do you still have a flame in the pot each time you try to start up? Did you pour any more fuel treatment into the tank? Have you looked at the end of the flue pipe to make sure there is no ice or frost? Does the igniter feel warm each time you try to start?

Tom

[creekie]

Hey Tom, hanks for he quick response.
Yes, I did check the flue pipe, everythig clear and clean. I did not add more additive to the tank ( I have another moniitor "T"ed off of the same line and it works fine. I do have a faint flame in the pot when it first lights. and yes, the ignitor is warm when it trys to go.
When i removee the fuel line for the pot, while the pump is running it get a drip, drip, drip of fuel coming out of the line. It is liek the fuel stops at the pump. And yes, I pressed the sump float to reset itself.
AnY other ideas?

[HayZee518]

heater

unscrew the copper tube off the top of the solenoid pump. use a piece of poly tubing that fits [ presses onto] the brass part of the pump and direct its flow into a small mason jar. wstart the heater and watch what kind of flow you get. - drip drip drip or pulsating squirts. if its the latter, remove the cappillary completely from the heater and rod it out with a piece of stripped telephone wire. next, clean out the end that goes into the pot with a 1/8th inch twist drill BY HAND, not powered. clean out all the carbon. then put everything back. the pump should pulsate fuel into the pot, not DRIP - DRIP - DRIP!

[Bryand]

Sounds like the oil line into the burner is the problem. It should go at least 4" maybe 5" before it hits anything. If it is carboned up bad you will have to drill it with a drill just hand turning won't do it.

[creekie]

heater

"unscrew the copper tube off the top of the solenoid pump. use a piece of poly tubing that fits [ presses onto] the brass part of the pump and direct its flow into a small mason jar. wstart the heater and watch what kind of flow you get. - drip drip drip or pulsating squirts. if its the latter, remove the cappillary completely from the heater and rod it out with a piece of stripped telephone wire. next, clean out the end that goes into the pot with a 1/8th inch twist drill BY HAND, not powered. clean out all the carbon. then put everything back. the pump should pulsate fuel into the pot, not DRIP - DRIP - DRIP!"Thanks so much for your replys.
I kind of did do that already although I didn't put a plastic tube on the top on the solenoid, when the pump was running I could see it pulsating a bit, but very little fuel was sputtering out (not enough to make a mess).
The capillary tube is clear and the nozzle going into the pot is clean too.
I am going to open up my other (working monitor) tonight and compare the flow.
I really think it is a pump problem or the pump screen is clogged.
Is there an easy way to remove the pump?

[HayZee518]

pump

there's only one way to remove the pump. shut off the fuel. unplug the heater. remove the two spade terminals from the pump. unscrew the brass gland nut and pull the cappillary out. remove two screw that hold the pump to the top plate and pull out the pump. at the very bottom maybe 3/16" diameter is a screen. spray gumout on it to get rid of the crap.
don't take the pump apart. you'll regret it.

[hawkins111]

M2200 fuel pump

Creekie,

Have you removed the large screw from the sump and drained it. You may have fuel treatment in the sump that is thicker than the fuel. In your area due to the extreme cold I would not use any fuel treatment. If not mixed completely it will sink to the bottom of the tank and block the filters. The pump is hard to remove from M442 and M2200. You need a 90 degree screw driver to get the screws out of the pump. If I remember you can just get the pump out with the fuel line off. If not, just remove the whole sump. This may be a better bet for you anyway as you will need to clean the sump thoroughly. If you find no problem with the sump I think you may be looking at a new burner mat. Be very careful cleaning out the fuel nozzle as it extents only about half an inch into the pot. Using too big a rod could break the igniter.

Tom

[creekie]

still not working

well, I havent had much of a chance to work on this monitor but tonight I went at it again. I unscrewed the top of the pump and there is just a tiny bit of mist (air and fuel) that comes out. I hear the pump but it isn't loud. If I hook it up to the fuel line, the unit lights, very dim orange flame then goes out after about a minute. I have plenty of fuel coming in when I crack the fuel lines right at the heater it gushed out. I have bled everything and cleaned every screen ( including the one at the bottom of the pump). I don't know what is wrong, maybe the pump is hooped. Fuel before the pump but little fuel after.
i tried to insert an internal fuel tank from a 422 but it didnt fit.
I think I am looking at replacing the pump .

[hawkins111]

bad fuel

When you found out the fuel was jelling was there also dirt and rust in the fuel? Good #1 fuel oil should be OK down to about 35 or 40 below. If the fuel is very old and contaminated it may not flow at those temps. The use of Hot Shot or Hot 4 in 1 can be more trouble than it’s worth. Take a clean jar outside and drain some fuel directly from the filter. If you see flakes in the fuel and it is 15 or more below you have wax crystallizing in the fuel. That is usually an indication of #2 fuel oil, or a blend that has too much #2. If this is the case all the fuel needs to be drained from the tank and the whole fuel line purged of fuel. If the fuel is #2 you will probably have to clean the burner and install a new mat and ring. Monitor heaters do not like #2 fuel oil at all. The Woodway is a good dealer in Fairbanks and they can fix any Monitor.

Tom