Monitor 441 Heater

[crann]

monitor 441

thanks for the response.i will try tomorrow morning to get into the heater. i can not remember if the fuel sump has an incoming line and a line going out to the burner. if it has 2 lines i am assuming i disconnect both to remove the sump from the unit. in cleaning the sump is there anything i should be aware of .(so as not to break!) sorry but i am a novice at this ,and have not taken apart a sump before. to drain the sump do i undo the cover that holds the small filter? will this drain the whole sump? also, i do not have a parts breakdown/ schematic. can i download the repair manual from the first page of this thread? downloading can take me a while as i have dial up service for my computer. thomas

[HayZee518]

ok I'll talk you through the whole thing. unplug the heater. shut off the fuel flow to the heater. on the bottom right side of the heater you'll see a large philips screw. put some rags underneath the heater and remove the screw. kero will come out. on top of the sump is the solenoid pump. remove the two wires at the solenoid. unscrew the brass gland nut and pull out the fuel line. on the right side bottom of the sump, loosen the brass gland nut. remove the four philips screws that hold the sump to the heater cabinet. lift out the sump tank. remove the two machine screws that hold the cover plate on the sump. remove the cover plate with the solenoid pump attached. look inside the sump to see if there's any crap inside. spray liberally with gumout carb cleaner and blow out with compressed air. use some q-tips if you need to with the gumout. remove the two philips screw on the right side of the tank and remove the plate and gasket. pull out the filter screen and clean with gumout. shake it dry and replace it. spring goes in first. now put everything back in reverse order. replace the large philips screw and small o ring gasket. turn on the heater open fuel flow wait a few minutes for the bowl to fill up. the lockout paddle may have tripped. push the metal button to reset it. if the sump overflows again shut off the fuel and see what is hanging up in the sump tank.

[crann]

monitor 441

hay-zee, your help was invaluable. i got into the heater this morning and removed the sump, took it apart ,cleaned it and put it back together. fired it up and it seems to be working fine now. one question , years ago i was cautioned to not use carb cleaner on the small filter but to use contact cleaner only. do you have any opinion on this. also, where can i download the repair manual for the 441?
again , thanks . this forum is lucky to have such a knowledgeable person as hay-zee who shares his experience freely.

[HayZee518]

gumout works best. it dissolves any deposits inside and it evaporates quickly. it reacts with pvc and poly plastic but the plastic used in the monitor it doesn't.

[gixxerflier]

Monitor gaskets

Does anyone know of a really good, affordable gasket material for these?
I have tried a previously recommended flat woven fiberglass type about one inch by 1/8 inch for the side access panel (where the glass is) and the ignitor, but it let a terrible hot kerosene smell out. I also need to replace the top combustion chamber gasket now as it tore when I removed the top to inspect.

Is the original material (a paper like gasket) available without paying MPI their ransom rates?

Thanks in advance.
Andrew

[HayZee518]

Andrew, please search through these Monitor threads. Somewhere I have listed a gasket material complete with stock code from McMaster-Carr industrial supply. It is a boro-silicate stitched pad. a 12 square foot piece is like 12 bucks plus shipping.

[randy j]

Andrew, I used a 'tubular type stove gasket' material available at any hardware store. I had some of the flat material but found it difficult to make a 'good' corner. The 'tubular type' was a little more flexible. My problem was when it came to screwing the screws down, the gasket wanted to spin with the screw. I overcame this by placing the material slightly outside of where it needed to be, put a couple of screws in to hold the parts together. Then I pushed the material in position. I then got an old screwdriver the size of the screw. I heated the screwdriver until I made a hole in the gasket material for the screw. This helped to eliminate the material from spinning as I turned the screw. I did this for all the screw holes. When placing the gasket make sure it is covering the area it needs to cover.

randy j

[gixxerflier]

Gaskets

Thanks for the replies guys.
I went through every post in this thread (Hay, you've been busy) and the only McMaster/ Carr part # I came across was the stuff I bought.
It just doesn't seem to have worked for me. It really wants to spin on the screws and even though I used stove cement on one side it just doesn't seal.
Hay, may I find the sheet gasket you mentioned in another thread?
Mc/Carr is overwhelming.
Thanks again.
A.

[HayZee518]

try the rope gasket material another guy used. probably available from aubuchon hardware or maybe even the big box stores. use the rutland stove cement on it as high temp silicone breaks down. the combustion pot may reach temperatures of 500 degrees plus. I'll go through mcmaster-carr again and make up a "sticky" with the stock numbers and descriptions.

[squirrely]

Info

Hi, I came across this site when I googled monitor heater repair to see if my business name would come back. Hayzee seems to be dead on. I would caution anyone removing the fuel line from the burner to be gentle as it is common for the fuel nozzle to break off when loosening the brass nut with the red washer. The only way to fix that is to replace the burner pot.

[dotssy]

Hay-Zee ,thanks for all the great info about monitors, I have a monitor 422 for 11 years , will run with 2 bars lighting no problem but when I turn up temperature it shuts down a couple of minutes later or runs for about 20 min till it shuts down ,have had local tech out he replaced burner pot and ingitor rod and said he had it running in his shop on high for an hour , but when he put it back in house of course it would`nt work on high , I think ingitor rod needs to be adjusted ,whats the best way to do this ,thanks again for all your good work this is by far the best site I`ve found about monitors

[HayZee518]

the ignitor is a fixed ceramic or porcelain tube with a wound electrical element inside. I think you are referring to the flamerod adjustment. on the side of the combustion pot is a bracket roughly 5/8" wide bent and about 1 1/2" long. There's a hole in the middle for which the flamerod's porcelain insulator goes through. There is a screw on top and a screw on the bottom. by loosening one and tightening the other screw, you can move the flamerod a small amount nearer to or away from the combustion pot's sidewall. Ideally it should be right in the center between the wall and the flame ring [ the "looks like an inverted steel bowl" thingie]

[dotssy]

thanks Hay-Zee will try that later , if you have a service manual could you e mail it to me dotssy@gmail . com
thanks once again I`ll let ye know if the fix worked .

[HayZee518]

for the flow chart type of service manual go to ILLUSTRATIONS thread. go to the 7th thread. the pdf for the manual is in there.

[dotssy]

Hay-Zee, got monitor to run for 40 minutes on high ,8 bars lighting but when room got warm and read out dropped to 6 bars lighting the monitor shut down once again , if you have any solutions much appreciated ,and thanks again for your help.