The DEFINATIVE Monitor Thread

[Greg_Cornish]

Great info, thx

[HayZee518]

All the reset does is reset the lockout mechanism in the fuel sump. an "air lock" shouldn't even happen because the fuel is fed from the bottom of the sump through the needle valve before it enters the sump chamber. the fuel sump is more less open to atmosphere, so any air in the system just bubbles up through the needle valve to atmosphere. the only closed system is from the solenoid pump to the fuel tube in the combustion chamber and even this inside chamber is open to the air inside the closed combustion chamber. only two circumstances the toggle over center lockout occurs - 1) no fuel and 2) too much fuel.

[Greg_Cornish]

Could b e an air lock? Does is have reset on the outer right side like the 441?

[HayZee518]

the following is from the monitor error guide:
E13 No ignition. Failure of ignitor, solenoid pump
or circuit board.
Incorrect wiring or flame rod
touches to burner parts.
Air pressure switch or overheat switches not activated.
E14 - no fuel, frozen fuel line, obstruction in fuel line.
The burner mat isn't supposed to burn up! Its made out of a flame retardent material. It's just a flat "wick"

[msmith]

monitor 2400 problem

When I try to start my Monitor 2400, in goes through the warm-up stage for a few minutes and then cuts off - I'm getting an E 13 message. The E 13 means it's not igniting, right? I had a problem with the burner mat two years ago and my service guy replaced it ($180). Could this be the problem, and what are some of the other problems which would produce an E 13 message?

[Greg_Cornish]

I found my problem after a motherboard replacement and 5 service calls on my Monitor 441. There's an O-ring on the air adjustment intake switch that dampens the sound of the switch opening and closing. That's its only use. Well that had broken, fallen into the spring and wasn't allowing the intake door to open enough to get a good air/fuel mixture - burned rich.

He removed it, adjusted an adjustment screw to make up for the lack of the width of the O-ring and it burns very clean. Of course they said they first motherboard was still partly the fault and wouldn't refund me. So. I'll have my buddy put the old one back in for me to find out.

[mkadyz]

Alright, an update. The pressure switch finally came in and I swapped it out with the old one. The old one was fine. The more I think about, I would be very hesitant to assume the pressure switch is the culprit in the future. It is a pretty simple device and my guess is it doesn't fail too often. So that meant the old one was doing its job and not letting it start up.

Swapped the old pressure switch back in and ordered a new combustion motor and damper solenoid, total cost with tax was about 180 dollars. It may have just been one or the other, but I didn't have time to test them and the solenoid was only about 60 bucks. Right off the bat I noticed the new motor was much stronger than the old one, just when I was testing it outside of the heater. Put both new parts in, fired it up and its running like a champ. There is a perfect blue flame on low and med/low fire, no orange at all. When it kicks into high fire there is some yellow flickering for about 2-3 minutes until it lines itself out. Then there is a nice blue flame on high as well. Im not sure what the flickering is all about, maybe the burn chamber needs get to a higher temp to support complete combustion on high. I dunno, just a guess. I might play with the fuel delivery once it gets closer to summer and Im not going to need it everyday.

As some of you may remember, I used Permatex Ultra Copper for some of my gaskets when I did the chamber rebuild. It has been running for two days straight now and it seems to be holding up great. I also took my Fluke thermometer to the burn chamber after it had been running on high for about an hour and the hottest spot was about 575 degrees F if anyone cares to know. Well thats about it, if any problems show up in the future I will post back and let everyone learn from my mistakes.

[Greg_Cornish]

I just wan to thank you for taking the time to help others! I am currently unemployed and don't have the money for a service call for my Monitor 441. We just recovered from being out of power due to an ice storm when my heater started acting up. Your info was concise and easy to follow. My local Monitor dealer was able to get the gaskets and flame rod in less than 24 hours. Fifty bucks for parts and a little of my time and I'm back up and running thanks to your thread. Once again, THANK YOU SIR!!

Hehe. our serviceman charges $169 to come to the house and never leaves without adding to that. Last time they made 4 trips though since they guarantee their work. However, I'm sick of the 441 upkeep every year. Getting the Toyo 60 AT tomorrow to take its place. Some say its more efficient, some say its less.
I'll let you know what I think.

[Watchesgalore2]

Thank you big time!!

I just wan to thank you for taking the time to help others! I am currently unemployed and don't have the money for a service call for my Monitor 441. We just recovered from being out of power due to an ice storm when my heater started acting up. Your info was concise and easy to follow. My local Monitor dealer was able to get the gaskets and flame rod in less than 24 hours. Fifty bucks for parts and a little of my time and I'm back up and running thanks to your thread. Once again, THANK YOU SIR!!

[HayZee518]

The bearing for the combustion blower is a 608 Z bearing. I'm sure there's American cross references.
Inline skates all use 608 bearings. The "608" means that the bearings are from the 600 series, with a 8mm inner diameter (the width of the hole, i.e., internal bore). The "6" appears to be for the 6mm difference between the inner and outer radii (from the outside edge to the edge of the hole).

608 bearings are also the standard size for skateboard bearings. Quad skates use either type 608 (8mm internal bore) or type 627 (7mm internal bore). The 608's for quads are the outdoor bearings. If your bearings have letters following the "608" (like "S", "Z", or even "ZZ" or "SS") it is the manufacturer's way of denoting sealed or perhaps double shielded bearings. An "RS" label means shielded but that the shields are removeable (i.e., serviceable bearings). To make sure what they mean you should probably check with the manufacturer, since it can vary from company to company.

[mkadyz]

Greg, thanks for the pick of adjustment pot. I will look and see if mine has that.

As of right now Im waiting for a new pressure switch to arrive. Im thinking that my old switch may have been working fine, and it was doing exactly what it was suppose to do - not start up with out the proper air flow from the combustion fan. By jumpering the switch maybe I made it run when it didnt want to which is why I have a yellow flame on high fire. I did take a resistance measurement across the combustion fan. Service manual says 22 ohms, and Im at about 20.5 ohms. It also makes the jet engine noise that Hayzee describes, but only when it first starts up, and has been making that noise for about a year or longer. This is just a hunch, but I feel like my board is ok. Its timing when it is suppose and seems to be working like it should, however I haven't taken a meter to any of the test points yet, so as I said, its just a hunch. The pressure switch is suppose to be in some time next week so Ill keep everyone informed of what happens.

[Greg_Cornish]

yeah, had to look for my papers -
plccenter dot com. they receive your board, examine it, determine what's wrong, will call you with a price quote. then its up to you go with the repair or just junk it. they will charge you $5.00 for an examination charge - per board.

Thank you.

[HayZee518]

yeah, had to look for my papers -
plccenter dot com. they receive your board, examine it, determine what's wrong, will call you with a price quote. then its up to you go with the repair or just junk it. they will charge you $5.00 for an examination charge - per board.

[Greg_Cornish]

there is a place in Lumberton NJ that does repairs on all kinds of circuit boards.

Would you happen to know the name or number of such a place.

[HayZee518]

there is a place in Lumberton NJ that does repairs on all kinds of circuit boards.