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  • monitor 2200

    I NEED HELP !! i have a monitor 2200 that is not very old, it was running fine for about 3 months , now it gives me a error 13. i've cleaned the filters, and it has plenty of fuel, but it will not run. here's the best part, after i give up i went and bought a new one....it ran for 1 week ! now i got the same problem with the new one !!!!! somebody has to know what to do..i'm really confused now...( filter's were clean)....any idea's??? thanks !!

  • #2
    the problem, my friend is water in your fuel.

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    • #3
      monitor 2200

      will i need to remove the resevoir and clean it al out? or is there a easier way to do it?

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      • #4
        take a mc donald's soda cup and cut it to form a trough. place it under the cutout in the sheet metal side of the heater. find and use a shallow pie tin or plastic container. loosen the large screw and let the water bleed out of the sump. if you are using dyed kerosene, the water will look off clear, the kerosene will float on top of the water. when red kerosene comes out with little or no water bubbles, screw the screw back in. wait a few minutes for the sump to fill and start the heater. unplug the heater to reset the computer and plug it back in. two error codes may show up. EE-14 and EE-13. EE-14 means flamerod problems - shorted, soot coating between the inner porcelain and rod itself, bent flamerod hitting the burner bonnet. A plenum overheat will also give you this. EE-13 almost always means iced up fuel line, water in fuel line, no fuel in sump, blocked pump and/or sump filter. the pump doesn't know water from kero so it will pump this. water doesn't burn so it will knock out the flame and lock out the heater. I heard that you can add a quart of denatured alcohol to 150 gallons of kerosene. the alcohol will emulsify the water enabling it to burn [go figure]
        THERE'S A RED BUTTON THAT RESETS THE FLOAT. press this down. All it does is release the float. There's a sheet metal tab on the float and a magnet on the bottom of the button.
        Last edited by HayZee518; 12-23-2010, 11:13 AM. Reason: added stuff

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        • #5
          monitor 2200

          ok thanks for the info...i'll let you know how i make out...

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          • #6
            2200 e-13

            ok now i'm really confused...i did what you told me , and it still wont go...
            i am only using the capsule tank in my heater. i pulled the screw on the bottom of the sump, there's pleny on fuel coming out.i turn it on , the blowers run, the burn light comes on , then goes out and then the E-13 alarm comes again.this thing is only 2 weeks old !!!! i disconnected the copper tube from the burner chamber, and did'nt see any fuel come out.
            i have no idea what it is....hate to think i wasted $1500...

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            • #7
              ok, at least we're narrowing down the problem. you mentioned you took off the cappillary from the burn chamber and went through a cycle. Did any fuel come out of the tube? Was the pump pulsing? If the pump is operating the tube may be plugged. Take a long piece of telephone wire and strip off the insulation and try pushing the wire through the cappillary tubing. At the end that goes into the burn chamber, use a 1/8" twist drill and twist it in using the fingers to clear any carbon. Connect up to the pump and run a cycle. Put the other end in a jar and see if fuel is coming out. If you see fuel coming out, put the cappillary back into the burn chamber, reset the computer and go through a start cycle. If nothing comes out, then it could be the pump itself or the motherboard computer that energizes the pump. Get a new pump. This is the thing that gets most homeowners. You don't have a readily supply of parts which are expensive to have on hand.

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              • #8
                yes when i had the tube off i saw no fuel come out, can it really be the pump? thhis is a new heater, plus my other heater did the same thing a month ago! thats why i bought this new one..( only ran for 1 week )

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                • #9
                  try swapping pumps and see what happens. did you buy the replacement from a dealer?

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                  • #10
                    M 2200

                    In your case if you do not have fuel coming out of the fuel line to the pot when you try to start up you have either a bad fuel pump or a blocked exhaust. With a blocked exhaust or air side the air safety switch will not allow the fuel pump to come on.

                    Merry Christmas,

                    Tom

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                    • #11
                      Wouldnt you have a E14 error if the air switch or the overheat sensors were open ? J-J i was working on one during a training class with a similar issue that had been returned to the dealer with the same E13 error with no fuel pumping and was able to lightly tap on the fuel pump coil and it took off and ran fine. this may not be the issue here but i think since this is several that I've heard of with this problem there seems to be an issue with the pumps. whether its sitting during shipping causing that or defective pumps but it seems to be problematic with this unit.
                      worth a try in a pinch

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                      • #12
                        air switch

                        how can i tell if its the switch? or the pump?

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                        • #13
                          are you purchasing these units from a local dealer ? i would think this problem should be covered if you give them a call.

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                          • #14
                            M2200

                            If the air safety switch is not closed by the blower motor air pressure the fuel pump is taken out of the circuit, no pump. If the overheat switch is open due to overheat the fuel pump is taken out of the circuit, no pump. Both cases will cause an E13 message on M2200 or M2400, No Ignition. When the stove starts normally and runs for even a little while and then quits you would see an E14 message, Flame Failure.

                            There is something going on that is common to both stoves. Bad fuel, no fuel, low fuel, blocked exhaust or air. Your situation with the fuel pump you tapped could be bad fuel causing the plunger to get stuck. If you have ever looked at the wires on the solenoid pump you have seen how thin they are. Any messing around with those wires on the pump could cause them to break.

                            To answer the question, “Is it the pump or the air safety switch?” you need to prove the switch with a Volt Ohm meter or by pass it by connecting the wires together. The Solenoid pump can be checked with a V/O meter, 990 Ohms across the solenoid it’s self.

                            The only other thing that is common to both stoves is the house electrical system. Any kind of bad power could take out the main circuit board pump control. If you protect your computer with some kind of system you should also think about doing so with your heater. A good voltage regulator or line conditioner can protect your Monitor.

                            Keep us posted,

                            Tom

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                            • #15
                              2200

                              good info..i'll check out these and let you know..

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