new Toyo heaters for 2015

[hawkins111]

Toyotomi has made changes to all of their line of heaters. All the electrical had changed as of 6/29/15. Main boards, indicator boards, motors, fuel pumps and fuel sumps have all been changed and are not interchangeable with the older units. The note below will give you a good idea of what is happening. I will give a separate run down on each model in the near future. Tom

New Toyostove Direct Vent Wall Heaters 6/29/15

1. L-30 is now L-300.
   
2. OM-23 is now L-530.
   
3. L-56 is now L-560.
   
4. L-73 is now L-730.
   
5. 60-AT is the same.

New Toyostove models have new main circuit board, lamp circuit board, fuel sump, fuel pump and burner thermistors.
Changes For All Models

1. New main board for each unit
   
2. New lamp circuit board with better features. The new control has a bigger display that is much brighter and has 30 programing options, pre-programed with 8 set-backs. Easy to use, and see!
   
3. New fuel sump and pump.
   
4. No fire rite safety valve required (be sure to sell our shut off valve). Fuel sump will melt, stopping the fuel flow, because it is now made of Zinc.
   
5. Power saver mode button on all stoves. When turned on, the temperature differential changes from 4 degrees to 10 degree. Room set point to 68 degrees without energy saver will shut off at 72 degrees; with energy saver button pushed on will turn off at 78 degrees.
   
6. Child lock button. When turned on the stove setting cannot be changed, if the power button is pushed during operation the stove will turn off and give an audible chirping noise.

Changes For Each Model
L-30 versus L-300

1. Single piece heat chamber and heat exchanger, just like the OM22/23.
   
2. Exhaust stub relocated to the right. New hole will need to be done when replacing the old style stove with the new product.
   
3. Drip tray attached. No leveling legs.
   
4. Smart new modern look.
   
5. New lamp and main circuit boards.
   
6. New fuel pump and sump.
   
7. No fire-rite oil safety valve.

OM-22/23 versus L-530

1. New lamp circuit and main circuit board.
   
2. Fuel pump and sump.
   
3. No fire-rite oil safety valve.

L-56 versus L-560 L-73 versus L-730

1. Now has a burner thermistor.
   
2. New lamp circuit and main circuit board.
   
3. New fuel pump and sump.
   
4. Ignitor has shorter wiring harness. All ignitors work on all stoves.
   
5. Has a new built-in cleaning schedule. Stove will still go into the cleaning mode at 2AM, but when stove has run for over 2 hours on high the stove will automatically shift to low fire and turn the ignitor on for 5 minutes. The display will say CL5 and count down to zero, and then the stove will shift back into high fire mode. This is to keep the ignitor clean and the burner assembly clean.

60-AT no changes have been made.
The L-560 and the L-730 will be around for many years to follow. TUSA does not see the product line changing for several years. Toyotomi Japan just spent quite a bit of money on the L-560 and L-730 manufacturing production line, (new stamp dyes for the sheet metal and a new operation platform).
The efficiency number listed in the installation manual and sales sheet are configured by Toyotomi. With the new rating format for AFUE, there has to be duct loss, Toyotomi stoves have no duct work, therefore they are not rated by AFUE. The number was increased from the old product line because the new stoves have a lower electrical demand. Toyotomi has lowered the combustion pre-purge fan timing and speed, and a more efficient fuel pump with larger incoming fuel screen.
All error codes are the same on all new stoves. The 60AT has the same error codes as before. Here is a list of the error codes.
New Error Codes 6/26/15

1. E-0 is power failure (low voltage or unstable frequency) not power went out. Unit should restart after power outage.
   
2. E-2 is no flame detected.
   
3. E-6 is loss of flame 2 times after pre-heat.
   
4. E-8 is combustion blower issue.
   
5. E-12 is tripped high limit.
   
6. E-13 is burner thermistor not reading the proper resistance.
   
7. E-22 is ignition failure 3 times in a row and unit is in hard lock out.
   
8. E-23 is primary flame rod.

What To Look For
E-0 means power is either too high or too low. Are the hertz correct? The only way I know how to check this is to ask the homeowner does the micro-wave keep time? It is the only clock in the home that runs off of hertz.
E-2 is very similar to an EE-2. Look at fuel distribution, tank height, fullness, flame sensor, ignitor, fuel nozzle and fuel pump.
E-6 is pretty much the same as the old EE-6; it is loss of flame 2 times in a row after pre-heat. With the new error code of E-12 it is not a tripped high limit. Usually it is something in the distribution of the fuel, check for kinked or frozen fuel lines, filter fuel being plugged, inlet screen, needle seat in the sump and pump.
E-8 is motor stuck, burnt out, disconnected revolution sensor or corrosion on the bottom of the revolution sensor wire connections, MCB.
E-12 is tripped high limit. The stove is getting too hot. Is it over firing, is the air filter screen or the fan surround dirty? Crud on the cutting edge of the fan blade or is something going on with the circulation blower motor (bearings, windings, power from main circuit board).
E-13 could be a disconnected burner thermistor wire, burner thermistor wire broken, faulty thermistor, MCB, too cold outside or bad flue.
E-22 Hard lock-out! E-2, 3 times in a row, un-plug for 30 minutes, and refer to E-2.
E-23 is primary flame rod is dirty, sooted or disconnected.

[TechEditor]

Changes For Each Model
L-30 versus L-300

1. Single piece heat chamber and heat exchanger, just like the OM22/23.
2. Exhaust stub relocated to the right. New hole will need to be done when replacing the old style stove with the new product.

Those of us with 30's get to repair both inner and outer walls if/when we upgrade. Smart move
For me that's a 2 yr old tongue and groove pine wall that has to be cut out.

[hawkins111]

Yes, despite talking with Toyotomi for over 10 years about this problem, they decided to change the whole stove design. Now you can not just fix your old stove with new updated parts. If you get a new stove you will have to drill new holes.

[hawkins111]

Just installed a new Laser 30 that replaced an older Monitor M422. The hole that the Monitor used was OK for the Laser 30 except the long bent pipe that comes with the heater had to be changed to a short one. Since the fuel hook up on the new Laser is on the left side of the unit you have to re plumb the fuel line. Be careful with the fuel line on the stove. It is unsupported on the back side of the unit. Be sure to use two wrenches so you don't twist the line.

Tom

[rrob311]

I see the Oil Miser 22 was rated for #2 heating oil and the 23 is not. What is the difference there? Does the L530 run #2?

[hawkins111]

You have stumbled onto one of the many inconsistencies in the information offered by Toyotomi. The OM22, 23 and Toyo L530 are all the same heater except the L530 has different connections for some electrical and more error codes. Early on Toyotomi stated the OM22 could burn #2 fuel oil. In later statements all three were approved for ULSD ( a light fuel oil). I don't recall any written statement about OM23 or L530 ever being able to burn #2 fuel oil. In the owners manual of both OM23 and L530 it is stated the heater can burn ULSD. The manual for L530 stated ULSHO is approved as well. It is my understanding ULSHO is a heavier product than #1 or ULSD. This is very confusing to all.

Even though the OM22 was approved for #2 fuel oil you could expect much more maintenance. The heavier fuel oil has much more carbon and that means more service work. I have never talked to anyone that has burned #2 in a OM22. Here in Alaska we don't see #2 fuel oil very often.

In my 16 years as a dealer for Toyotomi products I have never been informed to use heavy fuels in L530 or OM23. For that matter I have never been informed about the use of #2 for OM22. I would say though the use of #2 or any fuel heavier than ULSD will cause more maintenance that you want. Stick with #1 or ULSD and you should be OK.

[hawkins111]

Straight off Toyotomi USA web site

EXCLUSIVE!!

Ultra Low Sulfur Heating Oil/Diesel (ULSHO/D) has no more than 15ppm (parts per million) of sulfur content. In 2012 New York State became the first state to mandate Ultra Low Sulfur Heating Oil (replaces current (High Sulfur) Heating Oil). Many other states are expected to mandate Ultra Low Sulfur Heating Oil within the coming years. ULSHO/D is similar to the diesel fuel that is available at most gasoline stations around the country for use in diesel engine vehicles. If ULSHO/D is available for delivery to your home by a fuel oil dealer be sure to request "off road" prices, meaning that federal and state road taxes have been deducted. In order to maintain the best performance, Toyotomi strongly recommends when using ULSHO/D that the heater be serviced at least every two years because the distillation of ULSHO/D is heavier than either K-1 Kerosene or No. 1 Low Sulfur Fuel Oil.

If any of the Toyotomi vented heaters listed below are currently in use and using K-1 Kerosene or No.1 Fuel Oil, ULSHO/D can now be used. However, Toyotomi strongly recommends that the unit be serviced prior to using ULSHO/D and subsequently serviced at least every two years.

IMPORTANT: If you have been using regular NO.2 Heating Oil (that is not Ultra Low Sulfur) in your fuel tank, before using a Toyotomi Vented Heater, you must have your fuel oil dealer thoroughly purge your fuel tank of all fuel and sludge from your fuel tank before filling your tank with ULSHO/D.

*Only the following models are approved to use ULSHO/D: Toyostove Laser L-30, L-56, L-60AT, L-73, L-73AT, Oil Miser OM-22, and OM-23