Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Monitor 441 Issue

Collapse

Forum Top GA Ad Widget

Collapse
X
Collapse
 
  • Page of 1
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
Previous template Next
  • #1

    Monitor 441 Issue

    Hi Guys,

    I recently purchased a used Monitor 441 for use in my home. The unit was very clean and the installer commented that it appeared to have been used very little by the previous owner.

    I do have a problem with the heater that I haven't been able to resolve.

    When the heater is turned off for more than 3 hours and I go to use it, it will light and cycle on for several minutes, then shut off and the display will start blinking.

    Through trial and error, I have found that if I turn the heater off, press the 'priming' button on the right hand side several times, then turn the heater back on, it will light and run properly. If I do not do this priming routine before turning the heater on for every use, it will not function for more than 2-3 minutes.

    We have checked the internal fuel filter (clean) and fuel delivery is fine. Good fuel pressure. (I also have a Monitor 2400 upstairs that is working properly.)

    Any ideas where to go from here?

    Thanks!


    **EDIT** --- MORE INFO:
    After reading several of the threads on here, I wanted to go ahead and clarify a few things. Once I get the monitor started by doing the priming routine, it runs GREAT. Nice blue flame, etc. The heater even cycles on and off properly (after reaching desired temp). The problems only occurs when the heater has been turned off for 3+ hours.
    Last edited by ruger; 01-04-2011, 06:38 PM.
    Tags: None
  • #2
    to me it still seems a fuel issue. you mention fuel pressure. the fuel feeds by gravity. there is no pump to pump your fuel "unless" you have a lifter pump to a second floor and "then" it is "still" gravity feed.
    pressing the button just primes the fuel into the sump tank. it doesn't force fuel into the combustion pot.

    Comment

    • #3
      HayZee,

      Thanks so much for the quick reply. This 'new' 441 is located in my unfinished basement, while my original M2400 is upstairs on the main level. The fuel line has always run through the ceiling of my basement and up through a hole in the floor to my M2400. The gravity feed has never been an issue with the existing heater.

      When the 'new' 441 was installed, my installer used a t-adapter to branch off of the existing fuel line. The new line runs across the basement about 20 feet and then down the wall to the heater. The installer even commented that my tank must be almost full, as he was getting great fuel pressure on the new line.

      I'm really at a loss on this one. Any other tips?

      Thanks!!





      Originally posted by HayZee518 View Post
      to me it still seems a fuel issue. you mention fuel pressure. the fuel feeds by gravity. there is no pump to pump your fuel "unless" you have a lifter pump to a second floor and "then" it is "still" gravity feed.
      pressing the button just primes the fuel into the sump tank. it doesn't force fuel into the combustion pot.

      Comment

      • #4
        M441 fuel issue

        Ruger,

        You have too much fuel pressure. If the top of your fuel is 8 feet about the lower stove you have too much head pressure. You should have a pressure reducer in the line going to the basement stove. It should be set to 2 PSI. With too much head pressure the fuel will seep through the float valve and fill the sump. The float will catch on the magnet and stay closed. When you start up the stove should use up the fuel in the sump and then quit. When you push the button the float drops and fuel comes in. This cycle starts again. The stove may use the fuel fast enough at first to keep ahead, however when it stops the fuel leaks by and we are back at square one.

        Tom

        Comment

        • #5
          Hi Tom,

          Thanks very much for the tip. I wouldn't have thought of too much pressure being an issue. It's certainly possible!

          Do you happen to have a link where I could purchase one of these pressure regulators? If it's something I can buy and install myself I would like to do so.

          Thanks!

          Originally posted by hawkins111 View Post
          Ruger,

          You have too much fuel pressure. If the top of your fuel is 8 feet about the lower stove you have too much head pressure. You should have a pressure reducer in the line going to the basement stove. It should be set to 2 PSI. With too much head pressure the fuel will seep through the float valve and fill the sump. The float will catch on the magnet and stay closed. When you start up the stove should use up the fuel in the sump and then quit. When you push the button the float drops and fuel comes in. This cycle starts again. The stove may use the fuel fast enough at first to keep ahead, however when it stops the fuel leaks by and we are back at square one.

          Tom

          Comment

          • #6
            check out the w.w. grainger site. they have a pressure regulator that goes from 0-25 psig. not sure how the parts of the regulator are compatible with kerosene but they do mention #2 fuel oil.

            Comment

            • #7
              HayZee,

              Thanks for the reply.

              I just checked out the grainger website. I can't post a link here since I'm such a new member, but it looks like grainger item # 1KCL1 is what I would need. Is this correct?

              Do you agree with Tom's (hawkins111) assessment that this is likely an issue of too much fuel pressure, and not something to do with the heater itself?

              Like I mentioned, the heater runs perfectly fine once I get it started by pressing the 'primer' button. I've run it for 48 hours straight and it cycles on and off just fine, until it's off completely for 3 or more hours.

              Thanks again for the help!

              James



              Originally posted by HayZee518 View Post
              check out the w.w. grainger site. they have a pressure regulator that goes from 0-25 psig. not sure how the parts of the regulator are compatible with kerosene but they do mention #2 fuel oil.

              Comment

              • #8
                YEAH WHAT HAWKINS SAYS DOES MAKE SENSE. i LOOKED AT THE REGULATOR AND IT SEEMS IT WILL FIT THE PICTURE. TOO MUCH FUEL FEEDING INTO THE BOWL WILL MAKE THE FLOAT RISE TOO FAST AND WILL GET HUNG UP ON THE CONSTANT LEVEL MAGNET. PRESSING THE RESET DROPS THE FLOAT.

                Comment

                • #9
                  Pressure regulator

                  The 1KCL1 in the Grainger catalog is a Watts 26AA, which is what I have on my Monitor.

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    pressure regulator valve

                    Ruger,

                    The valve we get from our regional distributor for Toyostove products is a Tyco pressure regulating valve, sold by Cash Valve of Black Mountain NC. This company is NOT “Cash Acme” that you see in the Grainger Catalog. Cash Acme valves are very expensive, as you could see. If you are on the East Coast, Monitor and Toyostove come from the same distributor so you should not have any problem ordering from a dealer of either stove. The valve we get cost about $50.00. That is a pile less than a Grainger valve. The spec’s for the Tyco A-31 valve are Max 300PSI, Range 2 to 30 PSI with 3/8 NPT fitting. Ours come set at 2 PSI. Contact any Toyostove or Monitor dealer in your area and they should be ably to help you out.

                    Tom

                    Comment

                    Previous template Next
                    Working...
                    X