you shouldn't have ought to taken apart the fuel pump. I tried that too and it wouldn't work after I put it back together. now, other than spraying clean the little filter screen I don't mess with it. because the pump pulses it just drips fuel. there is no real steady stream of fuel like you'd get from a regular oil burner and nozzle. my 2400 is two years old. first year after the install I had to clean out the sump tank. last week I had to clean it out again because the fuel & water formed a gelled gunk inside.
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Is it possible that the flame rod is bad. What happens if it is? could that be whats causing the heater to shut down before it really gets going? The only reason i bought the new burner guts was because the fitting for the kero tube broke off when i tried to remove it. When i got it apart it really wasn't all that sooty in there. It has all new guts in it now and still does the same thing.
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you could test out your flamerod by doing what that other guy did. get a diode and a 100K ohm resistor. connect them in series and when your heater starts to fire up, connect the diode/resistor assembly between the flamerod connection on the motherboard and the heater case ground. if the heater goes into lockout, reverse the diode/resistor connection. then try it again. if the heater keeps on going, buy a new flamerod. you can get it at mulharney's in brushton, unless you got a supplier nearer to massena. I'm in st regis falls on route 458.
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the flamerod circuitry has 120 volts AC on it when its not conducting. when it detects or is in a flame its characteristics change. it acts as a diode and its output changes to DC. that's why you use a diode and resistor to check out the circuit.
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I think i figured this out. I got a delivery of fuel just before i tried firing this baby up this year. They screwed up and put DYED FUEL IN!!! what exactly happens to the unit when you don't use k1. Is this what is causing it not to run? Not only did they deliver 100gal of wrong kero they made the 40 or so that was in there unusable. Does anyone know what it does to the unit when you get the wrong fuel.
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Got a fuel pump from Mullarnies they had it in stock. Now my monitor is running like a champ. AT first when i hooked the new one up it didn't work either, but after some investigation i realized i had unplugged it from the board when i was playing with the old one. Now im wondering if the old one is actually bad. I will swap it back in withing the next few days to find out. The new fuel pump actually squirts like a squirt gun...its more than just a drip.
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Toyo and Rinnai
HayZee,
It would be great to set up a forum for Toyo and Rinnai. Please, if you do keep them apart from each other. Rinnai's are all gas and Toyo's are all oil. They are not similar in most respects. As you probably have noticed on FixYa it is a nightmare. Hope to see the new sites soon.
Tom
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Service manual, Monitor 441
Has the service manual been reposted somewhere else? I get an "Invalid or Deleted file" message at Mediafire. I see it's a couple of years old. I'm going through some issues with a Monitor 441 now. This thread has been very helpful. Thanx!
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O-ring info
HayZee,
Somewhere back in this thread you mentioned you hadn't found any O-rings in the combustion blower. Here's some info that isn't in the manual. I found the remnants of the mysterious O-ring when I replaced the blower bearings in my 441 this summer. It was located in the inner compartment in the blower housing where the solenoid is mounted. It's 11mm OD, 7mm ID, 2mm wide (McMaster-Carr part No. 9262K167). It sits on a groove at the end of the solenoid piston and acts as a bumper to deaden the shock when the piston pulls in to close the damper.
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