The DEFINATIVE Monitor Thread

[willysfan]

422 question

Question-- I have been having problems with a 422,if it goes to high or if it runs alot. The issue is the fuel pump makes noise and the flame dies. I assume that the pump is starving for fuel.I always keep the basket clean,today I took out the filter in the clv. When all cleaned up and restarted, ran fine,even on high(little too much yellow), then I went in the other room,came back and the burner lights were flashing. I waited a few minutes then turned it back on, when it got cool enough it restarted, after a 8-9 mins. the pump lightly started the noise, I hit the valve reset a couple of times and it has been fine. It is winter here in Maine and I am just using this heater to get by until they install new furnace. I may decide to keep it to use in addition or master bed room,would probably rebuild it then,but now I really need to keep it running. Do I need to take out all the fuel components and clean every thing?

[HayZee518]

If there is water in your kero line, then this will travel with the kero to the sump/pump tank. Kerosene is lighter than water so it floats on top of the water. The pump, pumps from the bottom of the sump so if there's any water - you will be pumping water to the burner mat. This will cause loss of flame and a lockout. When the solenoid pump starts to make a rapping noise, it is starving for fuel. If you feel ambitious, shut off the fuel outside, drain the sump by removing the large screw, unplug the heater. Remove the brass gland nut from the fuel line, four phillips screws from the sump base, the two wires off the solenoid pump, the brass gland nut with the fuel tube from the solenoid pump - and remove the tank.. take the pump and top plate off as an assembly. clean any crap out of the bottom of the tank. Use q tips to slosh around some GUMOUT carb cleaner around the mechanical linkage of the toggle over center lockout. Clean that filter tube again with gumout. Now replace everything back the way you took it out. Turn on the fuel and press the red button a few times to let fuel get up to level in the sump/pump tank - plug in the heater, set your set point and wait for the purge cycle to complete. The base of the combustion pot should be warm during the purge cycle. This means the ignitor is working. After purge the pump will turn on and soon you should hear a shallow "whump" a sound that the kero has ignited. The burner and blower should shift into high speed. You should have eight lights on the panel. Yellow tips of flame means that your combustion blower isn't spinning fast enough and may be a sign that motor bearings may need replacing. Bearing type is 608Z with a 8mm bore. These are the same bearings that are used on inline skates. A brand new motor will run you around $150.00.

[willysfan]

No signs of water but I guess I will take out the unit and clean the crap again. I am using the capsule tank. It seems that the fuel isn't keeping the clv full. If i catch it when the pump starts starving and press the red button( and hold till the pump quiets) all stays normal.Unless the room temp gets like 4 degrees below the set temp this heater doesn't go on high. Usually runs on low or one step up.

[willysfan]

The heater ran all last night without a problem.I expect that it will act up again,but it is better than it was.I will be pulling the clv and pump and cleaning it, but hope to wait till the new furnace is in.

[HayZee518]

you said your unit uses an internal tank. have you checked the fuel line coming out of the tank for kinks? is the cap for the tank vented? if it isn't just uncork the cap a little so you don't create a vacuum within the tank. fuel travels to the sump via gravity.

[willysfan]

422

The line may have had something in it that is now cleared enough to allow it not to starve. Has been ok for awhile.The tank is one that goes in cap down,with piton that opens valve. I think there may have been some crud in line from sump to clv,now probably in screen in clv.I will clean that again at first chance. Trying to get ducts fixed and a couple other little things done, so that they can come and install new furnace,then monitor will be backup.

[catamount]

Color of the flame

Hi guys, I'm reading a lot about seeing a blue flame and am wondering if I've got a problem. My flame is blue but the pot glows orange and there are lots of yellow whisps in the flame. Yellow tips I guess you could call it.

Could this be a sign of inefficient burning?

[HayZee518]

not enough of combustion air. yellow means soot is being produced - yes inefficient flame.

[catamount]

not enough of combustion air. yellow means soot is being produced - yes inefficient flame.

HayZee, thanks for the feedback. When the heater is burning on HIGH it feels pretty hot but not as hot as I remember.

What are the problems that lead to lack of combustion air? I'm just wondering what I can do to improve the burn.

Thanks!

[HayZee518]

inside of the fan shroud there is a solenoid connected to a plastic flapper. when the flapper is open maximum air goes through the tubing to the combustion pot - like when your heater is on high heat. as the temperature is reached, the flapper closes minimizing air to the pot. some sites mention an O ring. I have yet to spot an O ring on this type of heater, just the flapper. also, inside of the flex that goes to the outside connection there is an insert that restricts the amount of air that is drawn into the combustion blower. you could try removing the insert and see what that does to your flame. it might increase the air flow and increase the efficiency of the heater. other than a bearing going bad on your blower there isn't much else you can do.

[Jannie Patterson]

Monitor 2400 Heater Won't Fire Off!

My Monitor 2400 will not work. Was running then suddenly it would not stay lit and gave the E13 error. I looked at your forum and decided I could do some of the tests myself. At first it was igniting but then just going off. I did find a carbon bridge to the flame rod and cleaned it with a qtip. Now after cleaning, it doesn't light at all. The burn light comes on and I can hear the solanoid pump making sounds but it won't fire off. I bled the lines some in case of air and cleaned the little place on the side. I took off the copper line and it seemed OK at its point of entry to the combustion tank. Any ideas what I could check or do next? Not much experience at this but husband is ill and I am willing to try any suggestions.

[HayZee518]

E-13 indicates no flame. if there is water in your sump, kerosene will float on top of the water. change the filter on your external tank. I have a 2400 here at home. I looked into the sump about a week after I got the EE-13 lockout. The float is a round plastic affair with a piece of sheet metal fastened to the upper part. when there is too much fuel, the float comes up and is held there with a permanent magnet. this action in turn closes the needle valve. that red button on the side just releases the float. on the bottom of the fuel solenoid there is a stainless steel screen that gets clogged with a brown gel. that gel stuff comes out of the kero whether its dyed or undyed. clean it off with spray gumout. inside the sump is a stainless screen about 1 inch long held there by a spring and the gasket and plate. clean this off also. once you've eliminated the water, there's no reason for the heater not to fire up. you've already eliminated one cause - the flamerod.

[Jannie Patterson]

Thanks for the info. I opened up the sump and the little pump and cleaned them out. The screens did look pretty gummy. Then I put them back together and tried the 2400 again. Since I cleaned the carbon off of the flame rod in the combustion chamber it has not been igniting at all. The burn light comes on but I don't see flame in the chamber. Before I cleaned in there it would light but then go off with the error sign. The pump is now not making any strange noises but actually I didn't hear any from it after cleaning...that may be good or bad??? Not sure! I will again open the combustion chamber and see if perhaps I knocked something into the way of the fuel but after that I am not sure what else I can check. Any ideas are appreciated. Thanks

[HayZee518]

ok, something to check before the system even fires up. when the unit is in purge mode, that is the combustion blower is running, feel the base of the combustion pot near that silver shaded cap. this cap covers the igniter. if the igniter is functioning, the metal bottom will feel warm to the touch. don't worry you won't burn yourself. if you can't feel any warmth then the element might be burned out necessitating a replacement igniter. when the solenoid pump is trying to pump fuel but there isn't any then you'll hear a click, click, clicking sound from it. if there is fuel in the sump tank and the fuel pump is running but no fuel goes into the "pot" the end of the fuel line might be clogged. remove the gland nut that goes into the combustion pot and remove the copper fuel line and hold it over a jar or can and operate the heater. if the pump pumps fuel into the jar, shut off the heater - if nothing comes out then the fuel line is clogged with carbon at the "pot" end. a piece of small telephone wire will just fit the cappilary tube. completely remove the tube from the solenoid pump and run the wire through the whole length of the cappilary to clean it of carbon. the brass extension that's in the combustion pot may be clogged with carbon. this must be removed with an eighth inch drill bit. just stick it in there and twist it around with your fingers. don't chuck the drill bit in a drill. once you've done all this cleaning put the fuel line back in AND start the unit. it will go into a purge cycle. feel the pot for warmth if the igniter is working. after purge listen for the pump, pumping fuel. if you have fuel and the igniter is working then the kero should ignite.

[Jannie Patterson]

Well, I did some testing today and the igniter seems to be working, it warmed up. No fuel seemed to be coming out of the copper tube that goes to the combustion chamber so I undid it again and used a wire and then we checked and the flow from our outside tank was slow, almost nonexistant so I took the compresser and blew out the pipe to the house from the tank. It made a good amout of sound and seemed to be flowing much better so I hooked it back up and tried it all again and still it would not fire off. I am beginning to wonder about the little pump now. It looks OK and is not making strange sounds but what else could be preventing it from firing off. I may just have to take it in to town but I REALLY didn't want to have to do that and I can't imagine why it is so hard to figure out. I do appreciate your suggestions and will try any others you might have but perhaps it is beyond me...I hate to admit that :-)